Thread: Series 3 2.25 Petrol Vapour Lock Issues

What carby do you have? The Webber is notorious.

Years ago I had some vapour lock issues which turned out to be dodgy valves in the fuel pump. If I put an ice cube on the fuel pump the problem went away!

I swapped the manual pump for an electric one and all was cured.

Thanks for that

Am running a the Zenith 36IV. Carb has recently had a rebuild and have only just put a new fuel pump on the engine.

The fuel line has been re-routed away from the engine block also.

Not sure if it is vapourising at the fuel pump or further toward the carby.

Might try lower octane fuel and possibly insulating the fuel lines.

If all else fails will look into electric pump.

I'd be more worried about the tropical low that is brewing north of Brome and heading your way. Potential cyclone there.

Originally Posted by Pegasus

Thanks for that

Am running a the Zenith 36IV. Carb has recently had a rebuild and have only just put a new fuel pump on the engine.

The fuel line has been re-routed away from the engine block also.

Not sure if it is vapourising at the fuel pump or further toward the carby.

Might try lower octane fuel and possibly insulating the fuel lines.

If all else fails will look into electric pump.

Carry an esky with some ice, and when it happens again, put a couple of ice cubes on top of the fuel pump and let them melt - see if that fixes it.

I added an electric fuel pump to my 2A, back near the tank. It mostly cured the problem. Still get some vaporising issues, but only when hot-starting and it passes relatively quickly.

I'm a firm believer that the problem is fully to do with the fuel they sell us now. Why else do all new cars have their fuel pumps inside the tank? It makes the old Landies look badly designed, but it worked just fine all those years ago, when they were new and petrol had some substance to it.

Good luck, and believe me, you're not alone in this. Just be thankful you're not trying to handle the TopEnd heat and humidity as well!

Dan.
69 2A 88" pet4 (in diguise), 68 2B FC pet6 (resting quietly), plus others.

Problem is almost certainly one of the following:-

1. Fuel pipe is partly blocked somewhere on the suction side of the fuel pump. Most likely the strainer on the pickup in the tank, but could be anywhere.

2. Air leak somewhere on the suction side of the fuel pump, most likely the strainer at the pump (if fitted) or a pinhole in the fuel pickup in the tank.

3. Something trapped under one of the valves in the fuel pump - last time I had this it was a the threadlike bit off a corkscrew grass seed - heaven knows how it got past the tank strainer

Does the 95 octane contain ethanol? If so, it is likely to vaporise at a lower temperature than ordinary unleaded.

John

Originally Posted by dandlandyman

I added an electric fuel pump to my 2A, back near the tank. It mostly cured the problem. Still get some vaporising issues, but only when hot-starting and it passes relatively quickly.

This should fix the problem regardless of the cause!

I'm a firm believer that the problem is fully to do with the fuel they sell us now. Why else do all new cars have their fuel pumps inside the tank? It makes the old Landies look badly designed, but it worked just fine all those years ago, when they were new and petrol had some substance to it.

They have in-tank fuel pumps because they use fuel injection.

Good luck, and believe me, you're not alone in this. Just be thankful you're not trying to handle the TopEnd heat and humidity as well!

Dan.
69 2A 88" pet4 (in diguise), 68 2B FC pet6 (resting quietly), plus others.

In over forty-five years using Series Landrovers with this engine (including years in the Simpson Desert), and with 42C forecast here tomorrow, I have never had vapor lock problems except when an actual fault (such as suggested above) has later been found.

John

an stop gap fix is to place a faced 7psi fuel pump as close to the fuel tank pick up as possable.