Thread: Series 3 - what to look for?

Hi Rich,

What motor is the car running?

I would replace the points and condensor in the distributor, and do the timing (static) and tappets while you are at it. I was amazed at how much crap came out of my radiator fluid, so I would put a flush through it and then replace it. Checking the operation of the fuel pump is also an easy one to.

I would also replace all of the hydraulic fluid, and inspect the master and slave cylinders for thier cOndition and reliability.

Best of luck,

Sam

I would replace ALL fluids: water, oil, brake fluid in engine, boxes, diffs, clutch, brakes, etc...

There will probably be grease nipples on the tie rod ends, plus on the brake pedal pivots and the handbrake linkage.

Rubber brake and clutch hoses may have perished.

Standard grease nipples are three (two U-joints and sliding joint) on each prop shaft, and one on the handbrake bellcrank on the chassis. There may be additional grease nipples added after market on the brake and/or clutch pedal pivots, and some after market tie rod ends.

The springs are best oiled rather than greased - take the load off them and paint the sides with almost any oil, thinned with turps helps, and leave with the load off for a day. Wipe off excess oil after the weight is back on.

While you are underneath check all the spring bushes for wear and replace as necessary.

Check tightness of prop shaft flange nuts, and check for oil leaks at seals. Check tightness of U-bolts.

Check oil level in steering box and steering relay. Check that there is oil in the steering relay and refill as necessary. While front axle is jacked up, check for any free play on swivel bushes and wheel bearings. Check that the steering arms on top and bottom of the relay and on the swivel housing show no signs of movement. Check the steering for free play - should be less than 25mm on the rim of the wheel, if more, find where it is and rectify it.

Check all four brakes and the handbrake for signs of oil or brake fluid leakage, preferably by removing the drums. While these are off check thickness of linings and that cylinders/expander are not seized.

Obviously, check that all lights etc. work.

Depending on which engine it is, it is probably a good idea to check the tappets - especially if it is a six.

John

I forgot to mention that the car runs the original 2.6L straight six.

rich

No one has mentioned the clutch that can get rust on it sitting for a while, so seems not to work..It happened on 'zara' while restoring and 1 of the others.

Flush the fluid out, refill, put it in low range, and key start it and it should free it....please make sure there is nothing in front of the vehicle while doing this.

alternatively, if possible tow it around in gear and should also free it

Mrs hh