Thread: SIII Swivel Ball preload

Hi Wallydog,

There is usually at least one shim on the bottom. It is useful to centre the swivel ball in the seal if nothing else. I also found with the Series 3 I did a while ago that in order for the bottom bearing to turn there had to be shims in there. If you buy (or have bought) a complete rebuild kit there should be a bottom bearing in there so you will be starting with everything new and should have a shim in the bottom.

The manual also says there is supposed to be a shim in there to start with, then you adjust from the top to get the required preload. Maybe you need to get one of Dave's CD's with the manuals on?

TimJ.

The distribution of shims between top and bottom is to centre the swivel housing on the ball. A quick glance at the manual shows the instruction to put the same shims back on the bottom you took out. If this is lost or unknown or new parts are fitted you will need to recentre the housing. I can't see instructions to do this, so if necessary I would have to work out how to do this.

John

Hi Wallydog,

Had a proper look at my manuals and the Series 3 manual (1978 version) doesn't even mention shims at the bottom. It says to use a jointing compound between the arm and swivel housing and then adjust preload by using the shims on the top only. I am sure I tried this as I was following the manual when I first did the Series 3 a while ago and then had to add at least one shim to the bottom to free the bearing. The manual says to centre the seal by positioning the retaining plate rather than by top and bottom shims.

I have a few manuals and each of them seems to be slightly different in their techniques for this, I am not sure exactly of the reasons for the changes but could very well be because of changes to the vehicles themselves such as the steering arm moving from the top to the bottom of the housing and the change from a brass bush to the railko bush. The four different manuals I have are an Autopress Ltd manual for LandRover 1,2 1948-61, an Autobooks LandRover 2,2a,3 1959-78, LandRover Series 3 repair operation manual published in 1978 and what appears to be the same manual from Dave's CD but may be a slightly later version as it has the five main bearing supplement at the end.

The earliest AutoPress one says to use the shims that came out from the bottom and that there should be at least 1mm top and bottom before starting to adjust preload by changing the shims at the top. The Autobooks one also says to use 1mm of shims in the bottom and then adjust from the top. So only the series 3 manuals don't tell you to put a shim in the bottom but as I said it may be needed to get the bearing to move. The difference between the two series 3 manuals is the type of compound they say to use on the faces, the early one says jointing compound while the later one says Loctite Stud-lock compound.

All in all a bit confusing but start with the recommendations in the series 3 manual and then add a shim if you have to.

Sorry about the comment on manuals, it was meant to be a joke, but looking at it it could be taken that I didn't want to help out and that is certainly not true, this forum has given me so much help I am happy to give back if I can.

TimJ.

I just did the swivel housings on my 74 S3 recently. And it had no shims on the bottom. I also remember one of the manuals mentioning shims on the bottom, so I checked the housings I got of a Series 2A rolling chassis I got a LONG while back. And it had no shims in the bottom either. All I ended up doing, was to coat the surfaces with gasket sealer and replaced the 'O' ring, and it's fine. Adjusted the pre-load and it works fine for me..

Wolf

Thanks Tim n Wolf. I put the bottom arm/pin on without a shim as that was how it was, bearing seems free and working and I now find that I need more shims for the top pin. W.

Originally Posted by JDNSW

The distribution of shims between top and bottom is to centre the swivel housing on the ball. A quick glance at the manual shows the instruction to put the same shims back on the bottom you took out. If this is lost or unknown or new parts are fitted you will need to recentre the housing. I can't see instructions to do this, so if necessary I would have to work out how to do this.

John

Thanks John, Recentreing the housing? Geez nothings straight forward. I just had a look at the centreing of the ball in the housing. Looks like Ill need some shims on the bottom so the ball will move down in the housing and that will allow me to adjust the preload with the shims there on the top. By eye the ball sits too high but I need to know the right method to centre the swivel? I think wagoo has been through this? W

If this helps, this is an excerpt of the Workshop Manual.

ASSEMBLING
NOTE: lf the studs for the track arm have been removed, fit new studs. Coat the short threaded ends of the studs with Loctite 270 and screw them into the swivel housing; torque 5,5 to 6,9 kgf m (40 to 50 lbf ft).
13. Using an oil recommended for the swivel pin housing (Refer Division 09) lubricate the Railko bush. Ensure that the thrust disc is in position in the bottom of the bush.
14. Fit the Railko bush and housing.
15. Fit the lower swivel bearing track and lubricate.
16. Fit the half shaft bearing track and lubricate.
17. Fit the lower swivel pin roller bearing.
18. Fit the inner swivel housing to the outer swivel housing.
19. Fit a new 'O' ring to the lower swivel pin/track arm assembly.
20. Smear the mating faces of the outer swivel pin housing and lower swivel pin/track arm assembly with Loctite Stud-lock Compound.
21. Fit the lower swivel pin/track arm assembly. Ensure that the track arm points to the front of the vehicle.
22. Fit the lock plates and nuts. Evenly tighten the nuts. Torque 7,0 to 8,9 kgf m (50 to 65 lbf. ft.). Bend the lock tabs to secure the nuts.
23. Fitthe upper swivel pin, original shim(s), lock plates and bolts.
24. Evenly tighten the bolts. Torque 7,0 to 8,9 kgf. M (50 to 65 lbf. Ft.) but do not bend the lock tabs at this stage.
25. Using a spring balance attached to the track rod eye, check the resistance to swivel pin movement. This should be within 3,6 to 4,5 kg (8 to 10lb) when the initial inertia load is overcome. Adjust by adding or removing shims at the top swivel as required.
26. Engage the lock tabs at the top swivel bolts.
27. Pack the inboard seal with heavy grease. Fit the seal to the outer swivel housing.
28. Fit the seal retaining ring, brake hose bracket, steering stop bracket and if applicable (RH swivel only), the jack location plate.
29. Check that the seal effectively wipes the spherical face of the inner swivel housing. Adjust if necessary by re-positioning the seal retaining ring with-in the limits of the bolt holes.
30. Fit the swivel pin housing assembly to the vehicle. 60.15.20.

This is what I used to rebuild my housings.. (Note: Notice no mention of lower shims)

Wolf

I have a suspiscion that the railko isn't all the way down in the seat. The outer side wall of the bush i thought needs to be pressed in and out of sight. The only visible part at the top of the railko should be the tapered part of the bush, I think?

i have about 3mm of the bush outer wall visible at the top. If that isn't bedded properly that will be the problem. Hope this makes sense. Ill have it checked out tomorrow as the bush won't budge any further .

Before fitting the bush and bottom race I did heat the swivel to about 100 celcius and lubed the outer part of the bush and it was still an extremely tight fit. Ill try again tomorrow. w