Bunyip rebuild

I have been a bit slack here lately but it has been very wet and that is my excuse for not starting on any body stuff. :wasntme:
I have been playing around in the shed cleaning and painting engine bits and other small parts.
I pulled the sump off and replaced the rear main seal one cold miserable night last week and gave the sump a coat of fresh paint before replacing it and most of the external gaskets on the motor. I pulled the rocker cover off and gave it and the inlet manifold a touch up with the wire wheel and it came up a treat. I did however find the Tappet Clearance plate to be oxidised and I need a replacement. Any ideas on where I might find one :(

I asked the local brake and clutch place about a reconditioning job on my old unit and was told not to bother. New unit will turn up in a few days. $300 for full kit with thrust bearing :eek: is this about right?

I dropped the alternator at a mates shop to have it tested and checked over but I am thinking its a very small unit and I will need at least 65 amps so might end up replacing it with a bigger unit.

I need to get the engine coupled up to the box and back into the chassis so I can move it around and start working on the body bits and pieces.

I got bored this afternoon and stripped the peddle box units down and cleaned and resprayed them, I will reassemble them when the paint dries but its very slow, its only about 10 degrees in my shed.

Bought a new Computer so if the pictures and things are wrong I will blame that :)

I spent a little time in the shed working on the pedal box units today and got them re assembled, they cleaned up reasonably well.

I have been looking at the distributor and contemplating putting an electronic unit in. I checked the vacuum
unit and it is stuck so its either rebuild the old dizzy or buy an electronic replacement from somewhere.

I used to carry a spare distributor with me as I had a few problems with mine in the Series 3. Ended up rebuilding it on the side of the road one day as I swapped it out for the spare, and that gave way too :mad:
So made one good one out of two bad units, and never had a problem with it again :D

By the look of your distributor I would say buy a new electronic unit and keep that one as a spare.
I did that on my S3 and have enjoyed trouble free ignition ever since.
Well worth the +-$150.

Phil

I have a HEI on my Series 3 with a 186 in it. It's terrific! Also put a Blaster SSS coil in front of it. No stupid points to play with or get wrong etc, and good spark, more power, better fuel economy. Now all I need for it is a decent carbi! :D

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Originally Posted by Phil B

By the look of your distributor I would say buy a new electronic unit and keep that one as a spare.
I did that on my S3 and have enjoyed trouble free ignition ever since.
Well worth the +-$150.

Phil

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Where did you get your dizy from Phil?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by debruiser

I have a HEI on my Series 3 with a 186 in it. It's terrific! Also put a Blaster SSS coil in front of it. No stupid points to play with or get wrong etc, and good spark, more power, better fuel economy. Now all I need for it is a decent carbi! :D

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My carby seems fine apart from the play in the bottom shaft. I need to find a good carby service place or bush it myself.

I got mine from Ebay, Powerspark was the brand I think.
I put a new coil and leads in at the same time.

Phil

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Peter O

My carby seems fine apart from the play in the bottom shaft. I need to find a good carby service place or bush it myself.

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Most places charge around $150-200 for a full carby rebuild...

You can do it yourself... or for $195 you can buy a replica copy of the carby... which is what i did

Link to carby
Land Rover Carburettor Carby Suits Late Series 2A 111 Zenith Carby Copy | eBay