Bunyip rebuild

I'm pretty sure you can use the tanks either side. you would have to cut the hole for the filler in the front edge of the tub where it meats the seatbox, I'm pretty sure it's standard practise stuff. Even if it's not, you have a land rover; it's all about custom building things!

I'm going to build a tank for the left side (under seat) to fit under a toolbox/battery carrier. I'll just steal the sender and things off an old tank i've got laying around. I'd give it a go if you feel confident you can weld it up so it doesn't leak!

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Originally Posted by debruiser

I'm pretty sure you can use the tanks either side. you would have to cut the hole for the filler in the front edge of the tub where it meats the seatbox, I'm pretty sure it's standard practise stuff. Even if it's not, you have a land rover; it's all about custom building things!

I'm going to build a tank for the left side (under seat) to fit under a toolbox/battery carrier. I'll just steal the sender and things off an old tank i've got laying around. I'd give it a go if you feel confident you can weld it up so it doesn't leak!

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No problem welding it up I have done a few before, so with the top out of the large tank I should be able to build a reasonably large LH tank complete with sender and fill pipe.
Don't suppose you know if they have baffles attached to the top? I don't want to damage them if I cut the top off.
Still thinking about a belly tank between the rails or just behind the diff. I built a 140lt one for my land cruiser that sits between the rails and just behind the diff if I used the same design I should get at least 80lt in there

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Originally Posted by Peter O

No problem welding it up I have done a few before, so with the top out of the large tank I should be able to build a reasonably large LH tank complete with sender and fill pipe.
Don't suppose you know if they have baffles attached to the top? I don't want to damage them if I cut the top off.
Still thinking about a belly tank between the rails or just behind the diff. I built a 140lt one for my land cruiser that sits between the rails and just behind the diff if I used the same design I should get at least 80lt in there

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Sorry Ive never cut one up. the series 3 station wagons came with a tank behind the rear axle, it was pretty big too. Just did a quick google, looks like 15gallons. I believe it would just bolt in.

Only catch I can see with these ideas is that you have to put the exhaust system somewhere!

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

Only catch I can see with these ideas is that you have to put the exhaust system somewhere!

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O come on, don't spoil great ideas with small problems like that!!! Compared to a new car there's nothing else under a series, so surely there is somewhere to cram in an exhaust! :D

You may be able to emulate an Isuzu engined 110, and run it entirely outside the chassis - but you will probably find the authorities want the exhaust exiting to the right.

John

The car had an exhaust that ran inside the rails until it got to the rear axle then it crossed to the outside and exited at the rear I reckon the same could be done with the tanks in place and meet RWC requirements. I did something similar with the chev diesel in the Cruiser.


Hey John that firewall has cleaned up a treat. If the weather plays fair I will try to get some paint on it next weekend.
I have dropped the support brackets and a lot of other bits at the galvanising plant so I hope to be able to start paint and assembly soon.
I reckon I will be finished in about a year or two :D

I had a couple of trips to town and had to buy hay so I did not get as much time on the Bunyip as I would have liked this weekend but I still managed to refit the bulkhead brackets and fuel tank.

I was sanding back the bulkhead this afternoon and noticed the was a slight discolouration on some of the original sealer that is under the paint at all the joints.
I wire wheeled some sealer off and found very light surface rust working its way around all the joints, so it looks like I will be rubbing a lot more of the bulkhead back to bare metal and treating with a converter before beginning to undercoat.
I was going to paint with an acrylic but after looking at this and the other tin bits I am thinking of using Killrust enamel and galvanising more small parts.
My wife suggested galvanising the bulkhead but I am worried it would warp to much.

I am not sure its the right decision but I have decided to gal the bulkhead and most of the metal bits of the body, floor tunnel, seatbox rails, radiator cowl and support panel.
I just seem to keep finding more bits with various stages of rust occurring on both the original and other second hand parts and even a couple of new bits.
I think I will bolt a piece of box section across the main mount points of the bulkhead to help with warping due to heat etc.

I also have a question about oil bath air cleaners and snorkel's. Has anyone ever fitted a tube to the top of an oilbath and run a snorkel on it?