H John.
Thanks for the reply.
Rover Diff which has appeared to stop leaking.
Yes it has oil in it, I changed it a week ago, after the leaking had stopped.
whitehillbilly
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H John.
Thanks for the reply.
Rover Diff which has appeared to stop leaking.
Yes it has oil in it, I changed it a week ago, after the leaking had stopped.
whitehillbilly
Fitted Voltage stabilizer today.
Perfect replacement for the old one, and fits exactly as the old one did.
Just needed to make a short Earth lead, between fixing screw/VS bracket and common chassis Earth, as per instructions.
Lead fitting as per original.
Just needed to find a longer fixing screw, which I have a box full.
Dash came out and went back without problems.[thumbsupbig]
Now Fuel Tank and Temp gauges working.
Thanks for the link, Phil b
VOLTAGE STABILISER/REGULATOR 10V CLASSIC LAND ROVER S II IIA AND III BHA4602 | eBay
whitehillbilly
Good afternoon.
Could of brains trust questions.
Gauges working good, bit temp one sits on top end of white line, between C and N, at running temp.
If idles for a bit gauge starts to rise, so all apeas to be working.
I run Repco Green Coolant. Would this cause lower than Normal Running Temps ?
Would anyone have a part number for a Oil Pressure switch, obtainable from Repco/AutoOne. My original one was playing up, I just pulled it out, and cleaned with contact cleaner. Lots of black kept coming out. Sprayed till clear. Refitted all appears back to normal.
Thanks.
whitehillbilly
The type of coolant used (within reason) should have no effect on running temperature. The fact that it sits on the top end of the white line is more likely to be manufacturing tolerance in the gauge and sender than an actual variation from correct temperature, and if it is an actual temperature variation, it is probably the thermostat rather than the coolant. And a temperature rise when working above where it normally sits probably represents either retarded spark or a cooling system defect (slipping fan belt, blocked radiator fins, low coolant etc etc) rather than the type of coolant.
Well, a quick drive from a long time series owner, suggested to me the clutch peddle doesn't go down as far as it should.
So i think I may have found the gear clunking problem in changing down to first and second.
The trailer Master Cylinder, I got local, may have internal difference, but looked exactly like an original one, which has now been ordered.
But the brakes worked far better, and no steering play, like his GAME.
Keep you posted.
whitehillbilly
Hello
Just having a read and thought i comment due to being similar vehicle owner. just did my pick slip and rerego for another year.
I have almost always run premix 50% product since 1990. with the Leyland and rover I used castrol products to suit the alloy engine.You do have operating temperature variations with different coolant products. the amount of time I had to work on come back cars after changing or doing coolant repairs by owners that found the temperature higher after the work was completed. Ive never come across a wonder product but its good to try these at other people cost.
I have got heavy machinery products that we sample test or record and quality is often variable at times.
This year I flushed the cooling system a few times of my 1978 Ser 3 2.25 with common cheep nulon products to get rid of the brown stuff that keeps coming out of the engine, and a corrosion only product this time. the temp gauge now stays constant half way with different temperature of days that ive been using it to get road worthy sorted.this has never happened before.
Had several thermostat new and old with a wide range of test temp including a new thermostat without wax pellet with my ser3 and a tried non original style and tempurates, I now convinced it was the volt regulator that would have the gauge run at the top end of the normal when driving at 100kmh or head light on. radiator metal temp stayed within a few degree [51-54] temp gauge would indicate between 1/3 and 9/10.
Brakes i had drama getting the brakes to pass rego test each year, This year i found a set of over size bonded shoes with imperial tread for the retain plate. it had been used with a damaged drums so my guess its now self radius ground to match my standard brand new drums. the old shoe had a aprox 35 mm contact area so i guess these are the incorect radius. 10 inch drum front and rear. now locks up and turns sideways under brakes.
my new master cyl is leaking from the bottle seal
David.
Hi Dave,
Thanks for the input.
I picked up a new Clutch Master Cylinder, from Repco, the next morning delivery for $40.
It was fitted that afternoon, bled and set up with the Manual.
Quick drive and nothing had changed, still grinding when changing down to 2nd or 1st.
Next day plan, was to change the oil, 2,500 since rebuild.
Went from EP Mild to Valvoline, GL4 w75/85, as it was given to me, 1.6 ltrs, in its container.
I wondering if the lighter gear oil, helped any thing.
The oil that came out wasn't to dirty, and no broken teeth, or bits of metal pieces.
But, some very fine brass particles were in the bottom of the gearbox drain plug. Mmmmm.
New oil added, drive to town, and no difference.
Next job, to try figure out what is not working, as it should.
whitehillbilly
Having a few issues adding pics ????
I dug out a mainshaft gear cluster during Morning tea to try and work out, what may be happening, or not.
So am I correct in thinking the Baulk/ syncro ring, as the syncro gear is engaged, slows the gear running freely on its bronze bush, allowing it and the gear to engage ???? with out grinding.
If this is so, the new rings fitted, may not be doing there job.
I have done some comparing of new and old rings allowing for wear, a noticeable difference between the two sets.
If pics will post up you will see.
whitehillbilly
Down Sized images. Only let me add one per reply ?
So to try and explain,
If i move the 1/2nd syncro hub towards 1st gear, with the old rings the gear will lock up allowing engagement.
With a new set of after market rings, it will not lock up, so in fact will grind into gear.
Same for second with new and old rings.
I decided to measure the new and old rings.
I measured the rings in three spots, in the middle of the locating Tangs.
Old, 10.89mm in the three spots. small end, 60.74, larger 63.76
New 11.15, 11.02, 11.05 61.15, 63.30mm.
Also with the ring about to engage the gear,
Old 0.019mm New 0.047mm
whitehillbilly
Another pic.