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20 thou oversized, a BIG BORE motor eh? All that extra grunt :twisted:
This is probably a faulty memory on my part, but when we did my Hillman's motor (both times :(), the nuts on the bottom of the con-rods had washers with little ears that you folded up over the side of the nut to hold them in place. Faulty memory or not part of the Land Rover method?
Quote:
Originally Posted by crackers
Not on the two and quarters I have worked on, just nuts straight onto the rod assembly. They may have used tab washers on the rods in earlier times as tabs have been popular and played a big part in Land Rover assembly over the years. Not sure why they have favoured them so much over spring washers for a lot of applications, maybe it dates back to the war years and a high use of tabs there in aviation.
Cheers, Mick.
As Mick says,
Just nuts to torque.
A quick question,
Roof is off. Can the rear tub come off next, or does the seat box have to come off first ????
Thanks
whitehillbilly64
If it's like the Series 1, you can get the tub off now. On Wombat, the tub was held on by two pairs of nuts and bolts on either side of the tub at the front ie, two brackets to the chassis on each side, two bolts on each. You can reach up and around the tub to get at the heads of the bolts (being on the 'inside' so to speak) but there's also a large opening in the cross member that allows you to get your hand in there with a spanner.
On the Series 1, there's also a gap between the tub and the body work immediately in front of it and my son got a spanner in there on his side - I suspect you don't have that.
Anyway, on the Series 1, it was quite easy. Yours of course, might be different.
Seat box does not have to come off first - but it might be easier!
The tub (at the front) is bolted to the seatbox, to two tabs welded to the chassis, and to the door sills. Access to the sill bolts and chassis bolts is possible from underneath, but is likely to be easier with the seat box out of the way. Side skirts (if still there) are also bolted to the tub, and it may be easier to remove them first.
John
Thanks for the replies.
whitehillbilly64
Don't forget to fit the "oil pickup" before you bolt the sump.
Thanks for reminding me Mick88.
Is the suction filter the correct way, or should it be rotated 180 ????
Lightly fitted.
Still a few things to do.
Next Job.
Fit dissy drive gear, and grub screw.
I got hold of a Blue Leyland workshop manual. ( ebay, $5 plus postage )
So can I do the dissy drive with out the timing chain fitted ????
Set 'P' on cam sprocket to the stud hole.
Place in dissy drive as per manual, off set slot, on the outside.
Locate grub screw. ( how easy is it to do, any tips )
Should I use a little non permanent, thread lock on the grub screw threads ????
Thanks.
whitehillbilly64
Think I've gone mad.
4 1/2 hrs of degreasing, wire buffing, etch priming, then colour top coat,
30 odd bolts, nuts and WASHERS ( both sides )
Crackers, I think Im Crackers
Do I need medication, or is this normal Restoration madness ????
Thanks for your sympathy.
whitehillbilly64