Thread: Gilbert

It's a never ending job isn't it. I admire your patience and just hope I can match it when I get to that end of the job.

Pity it's lovely and shiny when all you're going to do is start the engine and make it all dirty.

Hi John,
I have some 4mm alloy sheet.
What does it look like ????

whitehillbilly

With the storms and rain rolling in today, spent the day in the shed.
Dissy was next on the list, so it was stripped and cleaned, until I got to the auto advance springs and plates.
Decided to put it all back together, what I had done so far.
Look at the manual tonight.
The dissy has no wear in the bearing and bush.
Don't know if that's what is hiding, but look the same as my Fergy one. But both springs look the same, Length and 6 coils, unlike the Fery, two different length and tension.
Is the pin at the bottom, to release the shaft, able to be pushed out either way, or does it have a taper or step ????

whitehillbilly

What advantage is there in running a ballast resister coil in a series 3.
I read it drops the voltage a couple of volts, but why is it needed.
Don't have a reststor on Gilbert. Were they on the firewall ????
Were they fitted to later ( 77 ) series 3's or was a straight 12v coil just used.
What is the correct temp thermostat for my, 77, series 3, 2 1/4 petrol.
Thanks

whitehillbilly

Had a look through both manuals,
Just wondering where the external adjustable vaccum advance, is best set ????
Maybe be it doesn't really matter, just about half way, set timing, then use it , for a fine adjust.
Thanks

whitehillbilly

1. Heat shield - from memory, about six inches wide, and has a curved back end round the back of the manifolds. It should not touch anything except at the mounting points. 4mm is a bit thick - I think the original is 1.6mm.

2. Ballast resistor. The only advantage of a ballast type coil is if it is wired with a direct feed via an auxiliary contact on the starter relay to provide a direct battery connection when starting, to make up for the voltage drop when the starter is operating. Originally designed for large US engines with six volt electrics, but also used with 12v systems with an inadequate battery or where the engine is hard to start for other reasons. Not really any benefit with any Rover engines except the V8 (and even then doubtful).

3. Vernier adjustment distributor. As you suggest, put it at mid point, then set timing by loosening clamp and moving it, then lock and usew the vernier for fine adjustment.

Hope this helps,

John

Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

It took me three hrs this week, just to clean up and paint the manifold bolts.
Any way fuel pump rebuild and fitted.
wonder why they did away with the small bracket and screw, to hold the valves in place for centre punching them, as per the later ones
Also the manifolds cleaned and fitted.
Should a heat shield be fitted to the manifold using the 3 UNC holes showing in the 3rd pic. Any one have one so I could get some measurements and make one ???? Alloy or steel ????
whitehillbilly

Billy I checked every two and a quarter I have here and the heat shield is non existent!
I would reckon they either all fall off or they are the first thing that's removed of when a two and a quarter gives any strife!
Not sure why though!


Cheers, Mick.

Heat shield is alloy, only purpose is to keep the passenger's feet a bit cooler. Mine was missing when i got the vehicle, and i have not got round to replacing it yet!

Mine is steel, I would be almost positive it is the original, I have just had it off, cleaned and painted it and refitted it. Hillbilly I will get a photo tomorrow and post it. It bolts onto the side of the inlet manifold with a additional lug on the top rear manifold stud as well. It would be pretty easy to make.