Gilbert

Thanks for the replies.
Like the simple compression tool.
Only got the seals to get a size.
Should of asked mick first !!!!
Going to local bearing supplier with measurements.

Whitehillbilly

Back on Gilbert.
Taking the Dash apart, after spending 2 HRS removing 6 bolts of the lower Gal Door Jamb and the Firewall 6 inch lower bolts. ( what a job )
Picked up a few bits from Marshall's.
What do I need to remove the AVM free wheeling hubs and putting It back to original ????
What series axles are the same, 2,2A,3 the same, how many splines ????
Pics and Links for removal and replacement will be helpful.
Thanks

whitehillbilly

Next job wiring loom.
Any hints ????
Was going to cable tie and mark what switch they connect to, not marking single wires. Should be able to work out, as will draw little pics.
Thanks

whitehillbilly

Picked up another good 272309 ( 5.50/16 rim) so have 3 to send to get gal coated, I have two already done.
Then 235/85/16 tyres. Because they have been Gal coated, will try and run the tyres tubeless.

whitehillbilly

Quote:

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Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

........
What series axles are the same, 2,2A,3 the same, how many splines ????
Pics and Links for removal and replacement will be helpful.
Thanks

whitehillbilly

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Series axles to drive flange - all are ten spline except Series 3 109, which are 24 both front and rear, as are 2a back ones with salisbury axles. Late Series 3 changed to 24 spline even for the 88. But check what you actually have before ordering, since parts are pretty much interchangeable!

Sorry, I am not familiar with the AVM hubs.

John

Billy with FWH you usually remove the front plate that's either held on with about six screws or larger bolts, then a circlip, then six or so larger bolts if there was only screws on the front plate.
The hubs should just pull off and replace them with a Land Rover drive flange/member.
They are basically all more or less the same to install or remove regardless of the brand.


Good luck.
Cheers, Mick.

whb - re the wiring loom . What helped me was a digital camera (took plenty of pics) - a multimeter (continuity testing and to test whether a wire had any current in it) and a wiring diagram for the colours and what went where. Any wires that were cut I just put a cable connector on the end of it so that it wasn't flapping about and so that I could easily see it and go back to it if I needed to. I did label a few wires and wrote numbers on the backs of some switches so I could match the two back up . ie - green and brown 1 on the wire and then 1 on the back of the switch (used a fine permanent marker).
cheers,
D

Scary day,
Electrics out.
Lots of notes pic and marked cables.
Loom not to bad. Cut, soldered and heat shrunk rat chews.
Use chassis loom to add the right colour bits needed.
Sorted out whats, what.
Blue and white stray and black stray, has had me puzzled.
Both ended up Earths close together. Should they have been joined ????
Well sort of, worked out they go on the Choke switch, to light the warning light.
I got most lights working in Gilbert, last year but No oil, choke warning light, but not connected to the old Holden motor. Also no Temp gauge, not connected.
Some lights in Tail end working as wires had melted together.
Will run a 7 core trailer cable when replacing. Give me a couple extra, one for Reverse Light. Might even run a second set while I am at it just in case of mice/rats
Will wire into front plug as per wiring diagram, back as per modern car wiring colours.

whitehillbilly

what is this on speedo gauge ????
Thanks

whitehillbilly

Voltage stabiliser for the fuel and temp gauges. The gauges only operate on 10 volts and that provides resistance to the circuit so as to stop the gauges moving fast such as the fuel gauge will as ur driving along as the fuel sloshes around in the tank and the sender unit floats up n down.

Cheers Rod

It will show up on ur wiring diagram. Positive to one side and then 2 feeds to the gauges from the other side


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