Gilbert

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

I'd be inclined to straighten it - there has been a discussion on how to do this in another build thread, but I can't remember which one.

All Series Landrovers have serial numbers on both axle housings. They are not the same as the chassis number.

John

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It was on Cracker's 107 rebuild thread.

Bit more Gilbert progress.
Holden Engine out.

whitehillbilly

Took some pics of the Radiator attachment.
How is the series 3 radiator fixed.
The welded panel has 3 fixing bolts either side.
The radiator is held within its own bracket, then bolted either side to the panel.
Pics please.
Only have the front panel and grill, trying to replace bits, removed on fitting the Holden Motor.
Thanks

whitehillbilly

Left the 15AC on the SOLD Holden motor.
Trolled through the Darkest Corners of the local wrecking yard and The lucas 127 or ARC alternator didn't turn up, It was a bit scarry out there.
So many Bosch ones hanging, what one of these, is a direct, fit, No Mods????
What vehicles did they fit ???? What serial No ????
What regulator, internal or external ones.

whitehillbilly

Hello from Brisbane.

Not sure if this is what you are looking for?

http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/...pspnreii6o.jpg

http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/...psoouenvsc.jpg

http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/...psfow4rwkt.jpg

http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0mbqswnw.jpg

Cheers,

Neil

Thanks Neil.
Get some idea now.

whitehillbilly

Well its time I got back to Gilbert, instead of playing with my other series 3.
Took the front section to my mate around the corner, to try and get the steering relay out. Even with a lot of oxy heat and a very large press we couldn't budge it. Things were bending and we had to press it back to shape.
Thought I would take advantage of it being 'Easy' to work on.
Does it matter it wont budge ???? Are they easy to pull apart still in the chassis ????
Got a couple of Relay seals from roverparts,
Thinking of making up new brake pipes. What do I need, as all the fittings on Gilbert have been apart, so could use those threaded parts.
Thanks

whitehillbilly

Quote:

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Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

Are they easy to pull apart still in the chassis ????
Got a couple of Relay seals from roverparts,

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Getting it apart is easy, re-assembly is more difficult because you need to compress the spring.
Seals are available from any bearing joint, if Roverparts have supplied **itpart seals don't waste your time fitting them......

Details of the type of tool needed here :-
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/other-powe...ml#post1923438

If it still has clean oil inside (unlikely) just remove the top & bottom plates and fit new seals & gaskets.

On my Series I I just replaced the lower seal when the oil fell out.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-l...ml#post1994239




Colin

Quote:

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Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

Well its time I got back to Gilbert, instead of playing with my other series 3.
Took the front section to my mate around the corner, to try and get the steering relay out. Even with a lot of oxy heat and a very large press we couldn't budge it. Things were bending and we had to press it back to shape.
Thought I would take advantage of it being 'Easy' to work on.
Does it matter it wont budge ???? Are they easy to pull apart still in the chassis ????
Got a couple of Relay seals from roverparts,
Thinking of making up new brake pipes. What do I need, as all the fittings on Gilbert have been apart, so could use those threaded parts.
Thanks

whitehillbilly

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Billy I recently rebuilt one in the chassis as it was way too stubborn to move and I didn't want to damage the chassis around it.
I did make up the tool to compress the spring though as it would be a near impossible task without one. As grommet says, toss the kit seals and buy decent ones from your local bearing/seal man, they are only a few bucks.
Also have a good look at the shaft and put the end with best seal surface to the bottom.
The seals I got are branded KOK TC 12043 1.125 x 1.500 x .250.


Cheers, Mick.

My Series 1 book describes how to compress the seal using a rod through the oil cross hole, but I suspect later relays don't have this since they discontinued the hole in the top.

John