Gilbert

Thanks Rod,
So what are these ????
On the Fuel and Temp gauges. Same thing, or part of the gauge ????

whitehillbilly

Still not sure what I need, once I remove the Free Wheeling Hubs.
Just the outer flange, and ( 6? ) smaller bolts.
Are they held on with a Circlip, ( as per my Mitsubishi Challenger ) or nut and washer.
Pics of one being taken apart would be good.
Will have another look at my Manuals.
Thanks.
Anyone covered the Top Dash in Marine Carpet, instead of Vinyl.

whitehillbilly

Quote:

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Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

What do I need to remove the AVM free wheeling hubs and putting It back to original ????

Thanks

whitehillbilly

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Hello from Brisbane.

You should just need the original driven plates with correct spline numbers, new gaskets and felt seal plus the hub caps and O rings.

The bolts and washers attaching the free wheeling hub bodies to the Land Rover hub should be the same.

Cheers,

Neil

Quote:

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Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

Thanks Rod,
So what are these ????
On the Fuel and Temp gauges. Same thing, or part of the gauge ????

whitehillbilly

---

That's the back of the gauges. the positive power comes in from the voltage stabiliser to the positive terminal on the gauge and the negative comes from the sender units, to the negative side of the gauge. The negative comes from the sender units at a variable voltage through resistance in the sender units, thus the needle moves up and down as the negative voltage is varied due to temperature variances for the temp gauge and as the float raises and lowers in the tank so the negative supply is varied to the fuel gauge. Obviously this is correct for NEGATIVE EARTH vehicles, and the other way around for positive earth vehicles, (early series 1, 2 & 2a)

Cheers Rod

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

Still not sure what I need, once I remove the Free Wheeling Hubs.
Just the outer flange, and ( 6? ) smaller bolts.
Are they held on with a Circlip, ( as per my Mitsubishi Challenger ) or nut and washer.



whitehillbilly

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10 spline-- Gasket, Drive flange, felt washer, flat washer, Castle nut and split pin. then the cap.
a small smear of silastic on the cap helps to stop oil leaks.

24 spline-- Gasket, Drive flange, flat washer, circular castle nut, split pin, cap. cap is sealed with an o ring on the drive flange. still use smear of silastic to help seal oil.

With AVM hubs you can re-use the bolts that hold the FWH on to the drive hub. with some other brands of FWH, they use much longer bolts to secure to the drive hub. they are a special bolt so make sure you don't lose them.

Cheers Rod

NOTE--Some manuals call gaskets "joint washers"

The "special bolts" are BSF. Just about the only BSF I can think of on the Series 3!

John

Thanks Gents.
Any dates, chassis numbers for the 10/24 axle splines changes.
Been looking at a series 2 to rob for bits for my 75 series 3.
will have to pull both off to check.

whitehillbilly

No idea on dates. all s2 s2a had 10 spline, some s3 had 10 spline inner and outer, some had 10 spline inner and 24 spline outer, late s3 had 24 spline inner and outer. to check which one, take cap off and check the end of the axle.

Will do Rod,
Thank you.

whitehillbilly

Change to 24 spline is specified as September 1980 - but I would not bet on this being accurate, and in any case your vehicle may have had parts changed some time in the last forty years.

John