Thread: SERIES 3 POWER STEERING CONVERSION

Originally Posted by goingbush

heres the electric power steering from Jaunt , that was mentioned above

That’s basically what I’ve done to a series 3 column - stuck an electric unit from a Prius into it. Wasn’t too hard - had a shaft cut and resplined to go straight into the unit. It’s still in a box somewhere as the build hasn’t progressed to that stage yet. Best part is it can be swapped out with a standard unit very easily if needed. I too have reservations about the strength of the steering box being able to cope so not sure if I’ll even use it yet but will see. It’s cost me a total of $90 (for the splines to be machines) so no dramas is I don’t use it.

I also agree a fully sorted steering system on a series isn’t too bad to use as is. The 101 is a different story which is why I fitted PS on that.

I'm considering options for Power Steering on the '52 Power Wagon I'm restoring , The steering box is the same size but even more ancient design than the Series2-3 & has a hole down the middle for the horn wire like the series one . And its turning 900-16 on a 2700kg truck, If I adjust so that there is a reasonable amount of backlash on the centre its so tight it seizes on full lock. A new sector shaft made it worse, I considered the Prius / Yaris mod but that wont really help, If I convert to Power Steering I might as well get less turns lock to lock and a tighter turning circle , the swivel housings could turn at least another 15 degrees each way if the steering box allowed it.

Originally Posted by goingbush

I'm considering options for Power Steering on the '52 Power Wagon I'm restoring , The steering box is the same size but even more ancient design than the Series2-3 & has a hole down the middle for the horn wire like the series one . And its turning 900-16 on a 2700kg truck, If I adjust so that there is a reasonable amount of backlash on the centre its so tight it seizes on full lock. A new sector shaft made it worse, I considered the Prius / Yaris mod but that wont really help, If I convert to Power Steering I might as well get less turns lock to lock and a tighter turning circle , the swivel housings could turn at least another 15 degrees each way if the steering box allowed it.

The fewer turns lock to lock takes some getting used to after fitting a PS box like I have in the 101. Haven’t even driven it enough to get fully up to speed with the idea but the first few runs I found myself over steering big time and trying to run up gutters in the outside of roundabouts etc.

I question concerns about the strength of the Landrover steering boxes (except for the early S1 plain nut ones) when fitting power steering to the column for two reasons:-

1. In my experience, steering failures on Series Landrovers have always been the linkage rather than the box. The typical failure is the splines or arm on the bottom of the relay or the arm braking, or the arm on the swivel housing loosening. The peak load on the steering box is invariably impact loads from one wheel hitting bad bumps, not steering input.

2. Is the torque input from these electric assists really significantly greater than that exerted on the steering wheel by a fit 1950s farmer accustomed to hand loading bagged wheat, ironbark strainer posts etc?

But also, while power steering would be nice for parking in town, when I feel the steering on the 2a is a problem, I know I need to check the tyre pressure!

Originally Posted by JDNSW

I question concerns about the strength of the Landrover steering boxes (except for the early S1 plain nut ones) when fitting power steering to the column for two reasons:-

1. In my experience, steering failures on Series Landrovers have always been the linkage rather than the box. The typical failure is the splines or arm on the bottom of the relay or the arm braking, or the arm on the swivel housing loosening. The peak load on the steering box is invariably impact loads from one wheel hitting bad bumps, not steering input.

2. Is the torque input from these electric assists really significantly greater than that exerted on the steering wheel by a fit 1950s farmer accustomed to hand loading bagged wheat, ironbark strainer posts etc?

But also, while power steering would be nice for parking in town, when I feel the steering on the 2a is a problem, I know I need to check the tyre pressure!

Agreed, never heard of a broken Landy steering box, leaky yes, but not broken. I don't think there really is any need for Power Steering on a SWB Landy , if its hard to steer the problem is elsewhere.
Even at Parking speed steering is a non issue in my Series 3.

.... but if you go fitting RTC dampers , yes you will probably need power steering .

Maybe I'm a bit gun shy from the 101 boxes - that do break, even under normal use. I have 2 good ones, but also the original which the previous owner broke - cracks and then flexes and can lead to total failure pretty quick. I thought about an electric kit for that, but knew I'd be in trouble. Fitted a Navara PS box in the end and all is well.

Again, while not having experience with the 101, I suggest that the forces on the 101 box that cause failures are steering kick, not torque on the steering wheel, so the electric power steering would be irrelevant. (But the failures you mention suggest a beefier box might be a good idea anyway!)

Good points and not sure what causes the issue but it is a well known problem in them. The box is smaller than a series 3 box and the torque through it is much higher than a series vehicle as well, but never thought about the actual cause of failure. The below video is from a guy that runs a stretched 101 (around 130") who blew the box while on a track. At around 6.30 on the video he shows a pretty good shot of the failure.

He's since fitted a 4 bolt LR PS box as the fix.