Thread: Meet Vincent the Stage 1 v8!

Alistair I have worked on several Daihatsu 4WD diffs are they are the same setup as a Salisbury and require a spreader, however I have never used a spreader and didn't have any difficulties.
From memory a spreader wouldn't be that hard to knock up!


Cheers, Mick.

I've known people that have done the job without the spreader, I think it just makes life a lot easier is all.

Hi All.
Since I posted last I had a bit of search around and ended up back at a couple of AULRO threads that described that the diff centre could be removed without a spreader. So today I pulled it apart and the centre came out with just some gentle prying with a tyre lever.

As for my pinion sloppiness, I think it was due to a loose pinion nut. It was not much more than finger tight. The bearings were all good, so in with a new oil seal and whack it back together again! The pinion nut was done up nice and tight with what seems like OK preload. Time will tell if it makes any unwelcome noises, I'll deal with it then.

Just now need to sort some rear springs before I can get it all back together. After having a good read of this thread...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-iii...springs-5.html
...my stage 1 has some aftermarket Lovells springs on it with a calculated spring rate of 975lb.in!! A 109 should be in the region of 270lb.in. No wonder the back end seems so stiff. I have a few sets of rear springs here so I'll put together a set to a nice light spring rate and go from there. I think the front end will be the same, going by the ride and number of leaves under there. That will be the next job.

Cheers,

Originally Posted by cjc_td5

Hi All.
Since I posted last I had a bit of search around and ended up back at a couple of AULRO threads that described that the diff centre could be removed without a spreader. So today I pulled it apart and the centre came out with just some gentle prying with a tyre lever.
Cheers,

Hi Chris

I have heard before that the thing will come out with a bit of 'gentle encouragement', whilst others swear blind that it won't... the service manual suggests a spreader. The one time I tried, I couldn't, but perhaps I wasn't 'enthusiastic' enough.

I wonder if like all things land rover, the tolerances involved are variable and sometimes it will go, and sometimes it won't. How tight was it?

Do you have a couple of photos you could post of the clearances involved and what you found?

A bit of an update.

I have rid Vince of the hideous galvinised pipe bullbar and made a standard looking bumper for it. It is just made from 100x50 RHS, with plates to enclose the ends and tabs onto the standard mounting points. Anyway, I think it tidies things up well. Just have to attach the number plate now. Still undecided as to whether to go in the middle of the bar or offset to the RH (drivers) side under the headlight??



I have put the 15" sunraysia rims back on it, they'll need a coat of paint pretty soon. Have to sort some tyres for it too. It has 31/10R15 on it now. I would like to go back to 9 or 9.5" wide but do not want to sacrifice too much diameter. Will probably have to go back to 30/9.5R15 I think?

I have changed all oils and most of it has stayed in there! The swivels leak badly so new seals are on the shopping list.

Then it will be a road test or two to see how bad the gearbox is. Certainly on a lap down the driveway the gear selection is more vague even than a Moke!! I'm not sure how precise the LT95 gear selections are meant to be??

Having fun
Cheers,

That looks heaps better.

cant remember which mag it was I was reading recently, but it described trying to find a gear in a series gearbox like "stirring a bucketful of gravel with a poker". Mines not that bad , but don't expect too much of it.
cheers,
D

The shift pattern in a Land Rover gear box is pretty straightforward.

A colleague not known for much sympathy with Land Rovers once directed my attention to this technical diagram:



Cheers,