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Thread: series 3

  1. #11
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    I know this isn't really helpful but my SIII 7/1977 has the two speed wipers/smearers.

    Nathan.

  2. #12
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    Hi Nathan,
    If original switch, gives us a start point.
    Thanks

    Whitehillbilly

  3. #13
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    It looks original, as in the toggle lever is the same as the others. It may have been put in as a later upgrade, just like I've heard you can put early Defender ones in to get intermittent wipers.

    Nathan.

  4. #14
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    Did crank the motor a few times,
    But what should I do before trying to start ????
    Oil is dark, but up to the mark.
    Water in Radiator is fluro green.
    Was thinking, remove plugs.
    Disconnect fuel line to Fuel Tank.
    Drop some Two st oil in cylinders for a bit of lub.
    Crank to build up oil pressure and check spark.
    Drain Zenith, connect Coke bottle with fresh fuel, and try to prime with fuel pump.
    Replace plugs, remove air filter hose and try and start motor. Any thing else ????
    Overdrive lever wont move. Could it be just seized where the lever shaft enters the box ???? Or something else. Will check its oil level.
    Thanks

    whitehillbilly

  5. #15
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    To simply check what works, a temporary fuel supply to the carburettor and see whether it starts. If not, then check things like whether there is any spark. Before running for more than a few seconds, I would be inclined to replace the oil.

    If you want to be careful, removing the plugs, squirt a teaspoonful or so in each hole, and turn over a few times before replacing the plugs.

    An easy check of the ignition system is to take the top off the distributor, turn the engine until the points are closed, and then manually open the points with the ignition on, while holding the HT lead from the coil close to the block. Should give a good healthy spark.

    The overdrive lever is probably frozen on the pivot of the lever itself. A couple of squirts of penetrating oil and a week should free it.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #16
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    Thanks John.
    Teaspoon of what, down each cyl ????

    Whitehillbilly

  7. #17
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    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Engine oil. Just to make sure the cylinder walls are not dry, will also improve ring sealing and hence compression and ease of starting. Don't overdo it, you will oil up the plugs or even cause hydraulic lock if you really go overboard.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #18
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    Now know as Bert

    Couple of hrs spent on Bert,
    Dropped out plugs, and squirted a small drop of 3 in 1 oil into each cylinder.
    Plugs look nearly new B6ES. little bit wet black, but not to black.
    Removed fuel inlet hose to carby.
    Feed solenoid via jumper lead from positive bat terminal, and it cranks over nicely, but no spark at plugs. Notice lead from coil to dissy is broken, new terminal crimped on, but still no spark.
    Checked inside dissy cap and all looks ok plus gap at the points.
    Wires behind dash has wires chewed from rats and a lovely nest, so feed the coil, straight from the battery, via wire. Spark at the plugs.
    Disconnected air intake to carby and spray in Start ya bastard, full choke and starts up first hit, running on sprays from can.
    No fuel coming out of disconnected fuel line.
    Remove glass bowl on fuel pump and empty fuel and crud, replace and can hear it tying to pump.
    Took off fuel tank cover under seat, looks like its the first time its been off. Remove suction hose and end is blocked with black TAR.
    Fuel tank looked clean so put in 10 ltrs, of 98 and add Gilberts suction hose.
    Cranked and fuel, very dark came through, kept cranking until clean fuel came through, reconnected fuel line with new inline filter, cranked and up he fired.
    Added air cleaner to carby, but pushing choke in made no difference, to the fast idle. Oiled the levers on carby- throttle linkages and a bit of work up and down, and they freed up. Now Bert idles nicely.
    Turn off, hot wire start again, and fires straight up.
    what grade motor oil should I use on this old motor, as I would like to give it an oil change, but not the filter at this stage ????
    Idles and revs nice with not much smoke, very small amount when removed the filler cap. Will have to take the rocker cover hose off and see if any comes out.
    Also will change air cleaner oil and give it a clean. Whats the best way for the old boy, as Gilberts was flushed and painted.
    Hose is perished, but have a new one, in my new bits box. ( don't tell Gilbert )

    whitehillbilly

  9. #19
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    Oct 2014
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    No Brakes, but will sort that out.
    Pushed in clutch peddle with both feet and it didn't come out. Took out 6 screws and oiled peddle bushes, and it has started freeing up, but clutch wont re engage.
    What is my first step ???? start at peddle end cylinder or clutch plate end cylinder ????
    What may not be releasing ????
    Read in another recent post you can use a trailer brake cylinder. Does it fit straight in with no mods ????
    Have another gearbox with brake cylinder attached, which I could put in.
    Thanks for any replies.

    whitehillbilly

  10. #20
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    Had a look at the fuses in the steering column.
    From top down, what size should they be ????
    All tested ok. Connections look a bit green. What spray cleans the green off ????
    what do the feed, again, top down, and what key position do the activate ????
    So many questions !!!!
    Thanks

    whitehillbilly

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