Thread: series 3

The two condenser looking things are most likely radio suppressors, to stop interference on ur wireless, or ur dvd mp3 player with the sub woofers and amps and 16 speaker surround sound stereo thats fitted to ur s3

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-P5110 using AULRO mobile app

Billy,
I expect the coil got a bit flustered because it was an eight volt one and didn't have a ballast resistor fitted.
Just a straight 12 volt coil is all you need.
I just fitted one of those Accu Spark ignitions to replace the points and I am very happy with it. Instant start and purrs like a kitten. Dearer to purchase than a set of points, but still a reasonable price. You can have them in your postal box from $60 - $70, others may know where to access them cheaper. I got mine via e-bay, but it came from this place.
http://www.robroyhistoricgarage.com....ts_spares.html


Cheers, Mick.

Originally Posted by mick88

Billy,
I expect the coil got a bit flustered because it was an eight volt one and didn't have a ballast resistor fitted.
Just a straight 12 volt coil is all you need.
I just fitted one of those Accu Spark ignitions to replace the points and I am very happy with it. Instant start and purrs like a kitten. Dearer to purchase than a set of points, but still a reasonable price. You can have them in your postal box from $60 - $70, others may know where to access them cheaper. I got mine via e-bay, but it came from this place.
Car Sales - Historic Car Restorations - Historic Cars - Rob Roy Historic Garage - Victoria - Australia


Cheers, Mick.

Agreed. I did a similar thing to my 109 with a 186 engine; HIE and a SSS blaster coil = trouble free motoring with a beautiful purr, easy start and more power

Zenith carbie? Internal carbie leaks can give poor idling. If it idles with the choke out but not otherwise, this could be the problem.
Might need to dismantle the carbie and re-face the top and bottom halves to get them to seat better. Did this on mine using a sheet of glass and wet and dry paper.
We also have electronic points- certainly improves starting.

By the way, Rod- we have "surround sound" stereo in our S3. In fact it surrounds us so much we wear aviation headsets to keep it out...

C00P

Well,
Pulled the carby apart on Bert, checked 4 bolts holding carby to manifold and tightened a little.
Took out all jets, including the idle jet, after splitting the two top parts, and idle screw out.
So nice to find things not over tightened, so everything came apart easy.
Sprayed carby cleaner through all the holes.
Re assembled, after looking at the 'O' ring which seemed ok.
Bit of play on the throttle shaft.
At least the mixture screw works now.
Checked points, 15 thou and fitted new condenser.
Also replaced the vacuum hose line out of the carby and into the dissy, as they were not as good as they looked.
Fired up first hit, no choke, idling nicely and did so several attempts throughout the day.
Timing set, just put it where it ran best.
The chassis is truly rooted, unless I can find another series 3 SWB one, so its a donor for Gilbert, but thought the kids could drive it around, whilst it is going, but it need brakes.
Pulled the wheels apart, but no fluid at the rear cylinders. and no brake pads on one of the wheels, just lots of bits.
No fluid at the fronts either, so thinking that maybe the hoses have collapsed, as fluid is present above them.
I have no pressure at the brake peddle, just goes straight to the floor.
Is it hard to change the single brake system to a double ????
Also gave things inside a bit of a tidy up.
Found a couple of extra keys, all different and fit the ignition, but none fits the doors
Found some extra labels. Will take some pics and post tomorrow.
Thanks for the replies.

whitehillbilly

Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

Well,
Pulled the carby apart on Bert, checked 4 bolts holding carby to manifold and tightened a little.
Took out all jets, including the idle jet, after splitting the two top parts, and idle screw out.
So nice to find things not over tightened, so everything came apart easy.
Sprayed carby cleaner through all the holes.
Re assembled, after looking at the 'O' ring which seemed ok.
Bit of play on the throttle shaft.
At least the mixture screw works now.
Checked points, 15 thou and fitted new condenser.
Also replaced the vacuum hose line out of the carby and into the dissy, as they were not as good as they looked.
Fired up first hit, no choke, idling nicely and did so several attempts throughout the day.
Timing set, just put it where it ran best.
The chassis is truly rooted, unless I can find another series 3 SWB one, so its a donor for Gilbert, but thought the kids could drive it around, whilst it is going, but it need brakes.
Pulled the wheels apart, but no fluid at the rear cylinders. and no brake pads on one of the wheels, just lots of bits.
No fluid at the fronts either, so thinking that maybe the hoses have collapsed, as fluid is present above them.
I have no pressure at the brake peddle, just goes straight to the floor.
Is it hard to change the single brake system to a double ????
Also gave things inside a bit of a tidy up.
Found a couple of extra keys, all different and fit the ignition, but none fits the doors
Found some extra labels. Will take some pics and post tomorrow.
Thanks for the replies.

whitehillbilly

Nice work getting that carbi sorted.... I hate playing with those things.

I changed my SWB from single to double leading shoe, if I didn't change the master cylinder to a 1980something metric version it would have been easy enough. I had decided I wanted a full dual system so changed the master to a newer unit not realising when Ibought it that it was metric....

Bits you'll need:
Obviously the front brake backing plates
suitable slave cylinders - Land Rover Parts - BRAKE WHEEL CYL - L/ROVER S2+2A+3 LWB 6 CYL, V8, ISUZU (LHF) (2 per wheel) and Land Rover Parts - BRAKE WHEEL CYL - L/ROVER S2+2A+3 LWB 6 CYL,V8, ISUZU (RHF) (2 per wheel)
4x shoes, STC3945
2x drums 576974
springs for the brake shoes. 234889
2x brake pipes to join the 2 slaves together on each front wheel NRC5347

I also used LWB rear brakes just because they were already on the sals axle I was using. All the fittings and stuff should be the same. I've read that you dont' NEED to change the master cylinder, but I was wanting easier brake pedal (the MRS is going to drive on/offroad as well)

My keys were so worn that ANY key would work any lock! I took all the combinations out and replaced them with new lock and key set. My series now has both front doors and ignition all with the same lock. (no rear door).

Found these,
One on Seatbox, and other Underdash.
Freed the brake master cylinder Nuts, with out breaking the pipe, lots of INOX sprayed.
When I cracked the front one Air bubbled out. Then dirty fluid, then clean. with peddle pushed and reaching around, I tightened the nut.
Now have brake peddle pressure. ( no pad material on R/H rear side ) so not pumping to hard.
Does Repco do shoes for Series 3 SWB ???? These 10inch shoes ????

whitehillbilly

Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

Found these,
One on Seatbox, and other Underdash.
Freed the brake master cylinder Nuts, with out breaking the pipe, lots of INOX sprayed.
When I cracked the front one Air bubbled out. Then dirty fluid, then clean. with peddle pushed and reaching around, I tightened the nut.
Now have brake peddle pressure. ( no pad material on R/H rear side ) so not pumping to hard.
Does Repco do shoes for Series 3 SWB ???? These 10inch shoes ????

whitehillbilly

Unless the brakes have been upgraded to lwb standard, it has 10" brakes. I expect Repco can get the shoes, but a Landrover specialist might be better. If there are no linings on one of the shoes, it is likely that that drum (and its pair) will need replacing. These are readily available.

John