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Thread: Rebuild time

  1. #1
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    Rebuild time

    After having my ute for a year now (original thread http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=222384 ) I have decided that it's time for a tear down and rebuild.

    Everything is working however it is far from reliable and I want to get it up to a standard where I can use it as a weekend driver & take the kids on camping advenutres.


    The plan is to keep it as is in its original condition. the drive line will be getting the majority of attention. the body is in very good condtion and does not need much work. The 2.25D engine will be getting a complete rebuild. I will be attempting this myself - never rebuild an engine before so am a bit nervous about this but also looking forward to the challenge.

    I have a new box of glad bags and a texta ready to mark and store all the little bits. Any other recommendations/tips before i get started? Any Series specific things i should be looking out for?

  2. #2
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    warm and dry workshop of sufficient size is the first requirement. trying to do it in the carport in somewhere like Lithgow makes it a hard job.

    Looks like you have done most of the maintenance type jobs vis brakes, filters and oils as well as putting in the later glow plugs etc. Besides other than the electrics most failure give some warning in my experience just maintain properly and deal with issues early like the fuel leak before they become a major issue. The thing is about 40 years old so just enjoy!


    PS when you get it on the road you will find it is governed to about 55mph max. Don't push it and enjoy the scenery.

  3. #3
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    If you do not already have them, get the factory workshop manual and parts books - see the CDs in "shop" on this forum.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #4
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    I have got to here with my 75 Diesel and now I have to decide whether to buy the kit and teach myself welding. The Jury's out. I also have to consider buying an engine hoist and stand etc . Rain stops play as you can see as I have only half the shed concreted. Get large bags as well as small for the bits and pieces. I use masking tape for labels. You'll need 3 to 4 times the working space for all the disassembled parts. The parts/ workshop manuals are useful as is the Haynes Diesel book. Oh and take loads of photo's , name them and create a folder for each stage - Tub/ Bulkhead/ Diffs etc . Plenty of WD40 and give everything a good soak ahead of the job. Get a good supply of grinding wheels in.
    cheers,
    D
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1957 88 Petrol (Chumlee)
    1960 88 Petrol (Darwin)
    1975 88 Diesel (Mutley)

  5. #5
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    Dark61,
    as for your shed floor, if you can organise it so that the water doesn't flood through it, old carpet makes for a fantastic shed floor. Great to kneel and lay on etc. and much warmer too. A good layer of crusher dust leveled out first is ideal.


    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  6. #6
    C00P Guest
    I second that. Used old carpet (obtained from local carpet store's skip with their permission) to cover the floor of my hangar/workshop/storage shed for many years. Keeps the dust down, easier to kneel /lie down on, and dropped tools or parts don;t go far. Level the ground and roll it before adding the carpet.
    When it rots, just pull it up and get another bit.
    One tip- unless you line the floor with plastic sheet before putting down the carpet, any metal items sitting on the carpet will rust. Even better, line the shed with plastic before adding the crusher dust.
    Much, much cheaper than concrete. And when you can afford concrete, you'll find the base is already nicely compacted (because you've been walking and driving on it).
    Cheers

    C00P

  7. #7
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    Hi guys I'm pretty lucky I have a large 4 bay shed with pit and have a engine crane and stand I scored of gumtree a while back. Just need to have a good clean up and get stuck into it. Like the carpet idea will be using that idea for sure. It's been freezing here in sa and the shed is not the most cozy place at the moment so getting out there at night instead of front of the fire inside is the main problem 😀

  8. #8
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    Got started on the weekend. Removed the tray and gave everything a good blast with the pressure cleaner. Removed the bonnet and LH wing tonight. Once I remove the RH wing I'm going to drive it out the shed while i still can and give the front a blast with the pressure cleaner.


  9. #9
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    Ben, AULRO has a fine history of building great shed heaters,, (and the posts to prove it!)
    no pressure on the rebuild
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    Ben, AULRO has a fine history of building great shed heaters,, (and the posts to prove it!)
    Had a couple tawny ports in the shed last night. Its better than a shed heater as it warms you from the inside out

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