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Thread: Operating Temperature of Series 3

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Yarrawonga, Vic
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    This is the radiator I have fitted as a stopgap to get my LWT registered, can be seen in a post above,

    LAND ROVER SERIES 3 4CYL 2A DIESEL/PETROL RADIATOR NEW AND BOXED | eBay

    Its alloy 4 core , with plastic tanks , Bolts up perfect to every standard Series3 hole, except I had to drill some special Lightweight Holes for the Military oil cooler , not found on the civvy Series3 so I'll excuse them for that.

    The radiator has surpassed my expectations of looks, fit, quality & cooling , so much so that I don't see any point in having my original re-cored now .

    no one that has looked has picked on the 'plastic' radiator .

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by goingbush View Post

    The radiator has surpassed my expectations of looks, fit, quality & cooling , so much so that I don't see any point in having my original re-cored now .

    no one that has looked has picked on the 'plastic' radiator .


    If anyone asks just tell them that it's part of "Lightweight" thing and that Land Rover lead the way in revolutionising the design of the Plastic/Aluminium radiator, way back in the 70's.


    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by inch View Post
    Morning,

    On a similar subject, can I pick the brains of the wise. Came home last night to the S3 project to find her sitting in a puddle of coolant, it was the core plug last month, now we've popped the other end, the radiator is stuffed.

    Not driven it long enough to gauge such things but the leaking radiator was a high capacity unit. With no cowl, I presume a cowl wouldn't fit as the HC radiator is hard against the fan.

    Living in Perth, what's the considered opinion, stamdard rad with or without cowl and standard belt driven fan or HC rad with no cowl? I'm pretty sure it's a standard thermostat and I've no intention of doing much static running, and using a PTO is right out of the question!

    Cheers Ian

    If you have to buy a new radiator the Aluminium/Plastic version like "Goingbush" has purchased sounds like a very good option.


    If you remove the engine fan and go for an electric thermofan, consider installing one on either side of the radiator, as I have found they work well with one pushing and one pulling air through the core. Only issue is you might need a higher output alternator if you are only running the standard unit. However if you go with the aluminium radiator, you may find it disperses heat that well that one fan will cope easily enough.


    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Serpentine WA
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    Thanks Charlie & Mick,

    Think the standard 3 core is probably the way to go with a cowl, seems like the most appropriate radiator for my use and appeals to my preference for originality where possible.

    Apologies and thanks Chris for hijacking your post.

    Cheers

    Ian

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Brisbane
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    All good Ian - a bit of discussion never hurt anyone plus we're all learning!

    Update on the temp - drove it back to Brisbane from Sunshine Coast and she overheats..it's strange though, temperature is fine in traffic, plenty of circulation, new coolant and recently flushed, new thermostat.

    I did check the timing and the flywheel mark is about an inch n half off (retarded I think not advanced) the mark but it idles nicely, runs fine on the highway. I have bought a carby kit to put through it (original zenith in there) so I'll play with the timing once I have done that. Is it as easy as rotating the distributor? Oh and advice on the carby service would be much appreciated!

    Thanks
    Chris

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Narrogin WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisInAus View Post
    ...
    Update on the temp - drove it back to Brisbane from Sunshine Coast and she overheats..it's strange though, temperature is fine in traffic, plenty of circulation, new coolant and recently flushed, new thermostat.

    I did check the timing and the flywheel mark is about an inch n half off (retarded I think not advanced) the mark but it idles nicely, runs fine on the highway. ...
    Thanks
    Chris
    Incorrect timing will make an engine overheat!

    Get it sorted first and then take it for a run to compare performance and temperature,

    Cheers Charlie

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