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Thread: HELP!!!! Car/Timing/Fuel Issues - 1976 SIII Game

  1. #1
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    HELP!!!! Car/Timing/Fuel Issues - 1976 SIII Game

    Good Afternoon Gurus,

    I am current having issues with my 1976 Series 3 Game.

    Background

    After a couple of years of good running and long trips, about 4 months ago, I started having issues with the running on. This developed into pinging and at the time, I went through all easy options to fix, timing, carb etc. There were faults when them all leading to upgrades to electric ignition, new distributor, coil, leads and zenith carb. Finally a compression check showed that the head gasket had gone between cylinders. This was fixed however I am having continuing issues getting trying to obtain an even idle and am still down on power.

    Current

    Carb has been rebuilt (errors were found in the new Zenith), fuel filter replaced (I am running an inline marine one) and water sprayed around the carb to look for a potential air leak. The crackling of the exhaust (it sounds like a race car on the over run) would indicate it is still running lean? I get an even idol when the choke is on.

    Timing is current set for TDC as per my workshop manual. Vacuum seems to be working fine, there is movement when you increase throttle.

    Our latest guess was a jet may be blocked? I could really use some help however.

    Thanks in advance

    Ben

  2. #2
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    Have you checked the little screen on the fuel pick up in the tank?
    Also check the fuel pump diaphragm, could be perished.
    Phil B

    Custodian of:
    1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
    1978 S3 swb canvas
    48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
    1985 County with 4BD1T

  3. #3
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    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    The symptoms suggest a blocked idling jet - last time I had that it was bits of the disintegrating in-line fuel filter!

    However, in the past, I have had similar symptoms from ignition issues. Assuming that you have points ignition, it could result from wear in the distributor leading to changed points clearance depending on the position of the centrifugal advance mechanism, or even just incorrect points gap.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the advice, Ill have a look at the tank/pump/jets today.<br><br>Ignition is a brand new electronic unit.<br><br>Thanks<br><br>Ben

  5. #5
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    Winston,
    what type of electronic ignition unit do you have in it?

    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  6. #6
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    I put in a new Type 45D Electronic System.

  7. #7
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    So just a points replacement unit the same as an "Accu-Spark"I have used a couple of these, one in a two and quarter engine and the other in a Starfire four, and I find them a bit hard to actually time the vehicle.Possibly ok with a timing light, but I don't have one. I am used to timing my engines by setting the front pulley at the correct mark BTDC on the compression stroke for number one cylinder, then with the ignition on and a spare spark plug attached to number one lead (and earthed) I rotate the distributor very gently in the opposite direction of the normal rotation of the rotor button. When I get a spark on the spark plug I nip the distributor up at that point.Theses ignition units don't appear to throw a spark with this method. With the two and a quarter engine I ended up timing it with points in, then fitted the module and it seemed to run well. With the starfire I have had to mess around a bit with trial and error of the timing, as it appeared top be too far advanced in a position where it should have been pretty well correct.Maybe with the carby you could try giving the engine a few decent revs with the air cleaner off, them hold your hand tightly over the intake as you let the revs off, this might clear any crud in the idle jet, and save some time. With the crackling in the exhaust, it might be sucking air, hence the lousy idle, try going over all the manifold and carby base nuts.Good Luck.Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by winston1968 View Post
    The crackling of the exhaust (it sounds like a race car on the over run) would indicate it is still running lean?
    I thought crackling of the exhaust is excess fuel being burnt in the exhaust (not enough for a backfire) so would indicate a rich exhaust. Happy to be corrected as I am not sure.

    Garry

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    If you have a air leak try spraying wd40 or alike around the manifold and carby with the engine running.
    If there is a air leak in a area where you have sprayed the idle should improve ,

  10. #10
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    Water in a spray bottle works just as well as WD40 & doesn't leave an oily mess. you will hear the water suck in & engine revs will change.

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