Thread: HELP!!!! Car/Timing/Fuel Issues - 1976 SIII Game

Originally Posted by winston1968

I retarded the timing back to 6BTDC and it seems to running ok. Its had a rebuild and am pretty sure its an 8/1, runns on 95 octane and therefore should be at TDC?

Not trying to be smart - just a point on terminology - going from static timing of TDC to 6BTDC is not retarding but is advancing the ignition. Might save confusion in the future when you talk about advancing or retarding ignition.

Also with your engine, normal unleaded 91 will be fine - no need to pay extra for 95 octane - when new, your engine would have been running on good old Standard fuel not Super so close to what is 91 is now. My Series 3 had no issues on Unleaded 91. My personal view is not to go to E10 mainly due to possible issues with the rubber in the fuel system.

Now I appreciate the spec for your engine is for static timing to be at TDC but I think you going to 6BTDC is Ok but just listen for pinging - though not likely on 95 Octane. As I said my old Series 3 ran fine on 91 and my low comp V8 (8.15:1) in my 101 runs fine on Unleaded 91 and I have it timed a 9BTDC.

Good luck with it.

Cheers

Garry

Thanks for the clarification. This is the first time that I have trusted myself enough to fault find my way through the ignition/fuel system.

Any advice is appreciated

If you need a hand setting the timing you are welcome to use my timing light
Let me know.

The new 45D wont have the same curve as a pollution gear landrover. most are for MG or mini.

Im using a points version. sold by land rover parts specialist. ran like a dog when I fitted it.

Im using manifold vacume not carb port. the retarded timing at idle was reduce gas emmision
I had a manfold port from a Datsun 200B I I found that as I turned it the vac changed. venturi effect.
direct manifold vac is may be too strong.

After that you may wont to lower the heat range of the spark plug or reduce the gap.

Mine fitted with a copy carby and I have to use the hand throttle on the first notch when cold. run fine when warm.
the issue I have is exhaust back pressure.

Update,

Pulled the carb down and found that the needle was still wrapped in plastic which had broken down into plastic soup. I pulled out the idle jet and to be honest could not see anything wrong with it. Noting that it doesnt look like the other jets, what should I have been looking for?

Put it back together with a new gasket after failing to find other faults, it is running a little better, still struggling to idle.

I think I put a swimming pools worth of water around the manifold and to be honest, the idle is so all over the place when it wants to go, that I couldnt tell is it was getting worse or just trying to stall.

Thank you for the offer of the timing light, I have one already.

Ben

Plug the PCV off until you sort the other problems. allow engine to vent pressure .
My doesn't make pressure as the engine still tight.

fuel leaking into the sump can also vent up into the manifold.

The idle mixture screw didn't work with mine until I sorted the rest of the issues. I suspect the throttle was open past the idle ports.

PCV is good to have long term. if you have erratic idle I used several types of non land rover valves when mine torn the diaphragm.
I using a Nissan skyline valve currently. I recently seen landrover valves at decent cost.

Hi winston,

I am a new landrover (72 series 3) owner and have found this forum so helpful I thought I would try and contribute what little knowledge I have gained thus far.. I didn't want to overlook the obvious, and I am sure you have probably checked already, but a rough idle could indicate the leads aren't hooked up in the right firing order?

Cheers
Chris

Thanks for the suggestions, update as of today is as follows:

The car is idling fine when the choke is on. The idle is fast but smooth, crackling in the exhaust is reduced to burble. As soon as it is off, the car stalls, crackle is back to racing car.

Conducted compression test - all good

Replaced the fuel pump - after some suggestions that this might be the issue, replaced with a new one, no change.

I again used lots of water to try and find a potential leak around the manifold. Nothing was very noticeable. If I go to a flammable option, is it more noticeable?

New options for consideration

Replace fuel lines, they are restricted somewhere which is effecting the idle.

Have another look at the carb, noting the plastic soup which was around the needle, something could be blocked, maybe a passage.

Timing might be still out, it is currently set for 6 ATDC as per the manual.

Any additional suggestions/advice would be appreciated.

Ben