I reckon Timkin are good value for money
There is probably nothing wrong with your current wheel bearing and they probably only need to be adjusted up.
Remove, inspect than re-install
G'day all,
I know this maybe a stupid question but I would like some assistance.
I need to replace the bearings on my 109" because they have a lot of play in them, what brand should I look at getting? I notice that the Timken kit is double the price of the Bearmach, is it really worth the difference in price or are the Bearmach ones okay?
Are the bearings easy to replace for a novice or should I get the mechanic to replace them? I need to watch my pennys due to having to get so much fixed on it in the last three months and I'm almost at the point of having to sell it.
Any and all assistance is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Nathan
I reckon Timkin are good value for money
There is probably nothing wrong with your current wheel bearing and they probably only need to be adjusted up.
Remove, inspect than re-install
Further to Weeds post - there is probably nothing wrong with the existing bearings. Remove, clean, inspect and only replace if needed (three out of four of my 110 hubs have the originals at 615,000km, and I have never replaced a bearing on my 2a in 25 years of regular use.)
They are not difficult to deal with. The only tool needed is a hub nut spanner and a workshop manual. Although the manual specifies the use of a dial gauge, results will be good if the wheel spins freely and has no perceptible play with the leverage of the wheel. Always replace the lock washer and the hub seal, and preferably the felt seal on the axle.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Are you sure the Timken kit is for a Series vehicle ? I checked prices some time back and it was close to $350 per set because one of the outer races was an unusual size. The 'Series' wheel bearings are different sizes, Defender bearings are the same size.
The wheel bearings are taper rollers and there are two nuts and a lock washer that allow adjustment. Pull the hubs apart and if the bearings aren't pitted then re-grease, reassemble & adjust. replace the hub seal at the same time plus you'll need a new lock washer & drive member gasket.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
That's what the options were listed under the Series Land Rovers.
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
The website I saw the bearing kit on was: roverparts.com.au
They list the Bearmach kit for $61.60 and the Timken as $128.60 (they say add $67).
I hope this helps.
Nathan
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
That's true.
You could ring Sean at RoverParts and ask him. I get all my parts from him and he has a wealth of Land Rover knowledge. If I remember right he was with RAF UK and went over to Africa for a time before coming out to Australia.
By the way, the business is now called S. W. McINTYRE. Land Rover Parts - Home
REMLR Registrant No. 436
LROCV Member No. 1703
1976 RRC Suffix D
1979 Series III GS FFR
1980 Series III GS FFR with a Perentie RFSV tub
1991 Discovery 1 3.5 V8 3 door
1993 Discovery 1 200Tdi 3 door
1993 Defender 110 200Tdi ute
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