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Thread: Starter Motor Deceased 2.25 petrol

  1. #11
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    Canucks

    Hello from Brisbane.

    For about the same amount of dosh being bandied about you can get a Startrex unit from the crowd in Canada who make the Roamerdrives. These are supposedly more powerful and efficient than the originals and bolt straight on.

    British Off-road on the Sunshine Coast were selling them at one stage. Presumably anyone selling the Roamerdrives is too. I have one for my S3 88" but have yet to fit it.

    Cheers,

    Neil

  2. #12
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    Hello Neil , hope all is well.

    Had a quick look at the roamerdrive site and that model is not the same as mine. Mine has no end shield and the solenoid is seperate.

    I have sent them an e just in case they supply others not shown.

    cheers,
    D

    checked British Off Road - they only supply BRITpart at $385.00 + postage

    further , on the bench I have 12 + volts on the end of the leads at the starter motor end but once the sm is wired up and turning , i only have 7 volts , wheres my 5 volts gone?
    Last edited by Dark61; 3rd August 2017 at 09:14 AM. Reason: further
    1957 88 Petrol (Chumlee)
    1960 88 Petrol (Darwin)
    1975 88 Diesel (Mutley)

  3. #13
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    Startrex

    Hello again.

    I bought mine from British Off-road a couple of years back - such is the pace of my own restoration.....

    From memory, Roamerdrive had a couple of models, one of which specifically suited the 2.25l motor - this is the one I bought at the time.

    http://roamerdrive.com/startrex_start.html

    Sounds like BOR are no longer stocking them.

    Cheers,

    Neil

  4. #14
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    that looks more like the one on the Diesel.

    May have to get teh wallet out again!

    cheers,

    D
    1957 88 Petrol (Chumlee)
    1960 88 Petrol (Darwin)
    1975 88 Diesel (Mutley)

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dark61 View Post
    Thanks for the responses.

    Somewhat confused.

    In town last week , wouldnt start. Got out fiddled with various wires dissy etc ,noticed live to starter motor a bit floppy doppy, got in and started fine.
    Got home parked up and tightened and cleaned everything. Volts accross Solenoid ok. Some days later , went to start it and no go. Just the click from the Solenoid. Hooked up battery straight to starter motor and nothing, so suspected starter motor. Dropped starter motor out and put it on the bench and it spins fine. Went back to truck , put meter on starter motor wires at sm end and i have 12+ volts so confused. Yet to look into sm so maybe something came lose?
    Apologies if fault finding a bit random.
    Any ideas?
    cheers,
    D
    Have you checked your earth straps/connections?
    Roger


  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dark61 View Post
    Mine has no end shield and the solenoid is seperate.
    The high torque unit has the solenoid attached, it's not trying to look like an original.

    Seems to be a Nippon Denso gear reduction unit, available from a few sources Land Rover

    Here's another one Starter Motors

    Have you removed the cover on yours and checked the brushes ? 270225 | Brush Set - Paddock Spares
    Is the commutator OK (no missing segments) ?
    Is there much play in the bush ? This can lead to poling where the free play allows the rotor to touch the stator, huge current draw but no rotation. You could source a bush from a bearing shop.
    Does it smell like it's overheated ?

    Unless the failure is in the windings or the commutator they are a robust unit and simple to repair. Not sure about a **itpart one though......


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  7. #17
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    Heres mine.

    everything looks ok apart from wear on the copper bit that the brushes sit against. Brushes look ok, springs seem springy. It turns on the bench , but loses 5 volts in the process. I am guessing it shouldnt lose that much?
    cheers,
    D
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1957 88 Petrol (Chumlee)
    1960 88 Petrol (Darwin)
    1975 88 Diesel (Mutley)

  8. #18
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    That looks like the one on my 6-cyl motor. The commutator (copper bit) is on the end and the brushes are almost triangular in section.

    What are you testing it with? The big current draw could pull battery voltage down depending on the condition of the battery.
    Appro

    Approx $260 delivered if yours is past saving. Probably 'pattern' though.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  9. #19
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    Thanks Colin. I have a multimeter on it. Battery is good. Commutator slightly worn - yes brushes are triangular. The main shaft has a small amount of play , maybe a mil or 2 max .Not overheating. All cables and connections are ok. So the loss of volts is not necessarily an indicator of faliure? The plot thickens.
    cheers,
    d
    1957 88 Petrol (Chumlee)
    1960 88 Petrol (Darwin)
    1975 88 Diesel (Mutley)

  10. #20
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    Where are you measuriung the volts? If that is measured at the starter, running it on the bench with no load, there should not be that much voltage drop once it it spinning if the battery is good. Mine only drops to about 10v when actually turning the engine!

    Either the leads to it are too small, or it is poling due to worn bushes. If the latter, it will be getting hot as well. If this is the case, fortunately, the bushes are cheap and relatively easy to replace. The most likely bush to wear is the one at the flywheel end, since it has the side load on it. You can check it by seeing if the shaft can be moved sideways. There should be no perceptible movement.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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