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Thanks for the spec no. That will make it much easier.Quote:
Originally Posted by gromit
810CCA!! I'm pretty sure my 300Tdi had a 750CCA to crank with. (I upped it to 850 which handled it a bit better)Quote:
Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64
Yeah, I'll cross the stromberg bridge when i get to it. At the price SU remakes are going for I'm not keen to spend money on the StrombergQuote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
Thanks for the help guys :)
So after 10 days away i couldn't wait to get back with a few days before work to try and start Finn (I'm pretty settled on Finn :) ).
went and bought a battery, some spark plugs, valve saver and a couple of fuel filters. Thanks to those that gave me specs on the battery but it turns out, due to the additional brake booster, an N70ZZ doesn't fit! So I had to get a slightly smaller one.
A quick story on the battery - I originally bought an SCA 560CCA N70ZZ for $180, then realised on the way home that Enirgi (never heard of them before) had N70ZZ on sale for $99. So stopped and took the SCA battery back. When I returned to swap the N70ZZ for a smaller one, not only did the guy swap it free of charge, he gave me $10 cash back! so I picked up a 610CCA 60Ah battery for $90 :banana:
When i got home I fitted the battery and tested to see if he turns over. Tick!
So I then swapped out the spark plugs (old ones were very gunked up), replaced the inline fuel filter just before the carby (it already had one - the old one seemed clean) leaving the line open to drain any crap from the tank, put in some fresh fuel and valve saver and turned the ignition on to let the electric fuel pump prime - a previous owner disconnected the standard fuel lift pump (it's still fitted) and installed an electric pump mounted to the chassis - but despite leaving it for 30 secs or so, there was no fuel and the pump still sounded dry. I checked the lines back to the tank, which were all OK, then I removed the drivers seat and pulled the pickup out to find the filter was slightly cracked and it was full of gunk. I ended up removing the bottom screen and cleaning it out with wire.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/853.jpg
I then taped a piece of fabric to the end as a temporary filter
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/854.jpg
After that I turned the ignition on a rusty fuel spewed forth!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/855.jpg
...and unfortunately after a few runs through it didn't get much better, though there was no sediment in it
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/856.jpg
After this I started to get excited that I might hear him cough to life!
But no... for some reason he wouldn't turn over. I replaced the starter solenoid (the car came with a spare) but no luck. And that is as far as I got (I wasted a lot of time buying and returning batteries!)
Until next time
Dan
A question regarding the starter solenoid - am I doing it right?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/857.jpg
The cable at the top runs to the starter, cable at the bottom runs to the battery + terminal, and the little cable on the left runs to the ignition (I'm assuming, i haven't traced it). No cable on the right terminal
And this is the part number of the solenoid:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/858.jpg
I pretty much copied what was on the old solenoid, though it didn't have a fourth terminal so I haven't installed anything there.
I have run a multimeter across the system and I get 12.6V at the battery, 12.6V to the battery terminal on the solenoid (as you would expect), and 12.6V at the little ignition wire, when I try to start the car, however I get zilch on the starter side at all times. I'm confused as the old solenoid worked with this setup. Well... until it stopped working :bangin:
Questions:
1) Is the main wiring backwards, i.e. should the battery connect to the top and the starter to the bottom (I didn't think it mattered) and;
2) Do I need an earth wire on the fourth terminal?
I haven't completely checked the earth terminal, though when I shorted the solenoid, the starter kicked over, so my hunch is the earth is OK.
Oh, and does anyone know how to replace the fuel pickup filter mesh?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/890.jpg
Thanks for the help :)
Dan
Here's a few more pictures of Finn as I got him.
Front bullbar with dents
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/859.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/860.jpg
The bullbar is welded to the dumb irons (is this legal?)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/861.jpg
The front axle
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/862.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/863.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/864.jpg
The heater/fan thingo
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/865.jpg
Coolant is still green! though it has floaties
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/866.jpg
A little rats nest
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/867.jpg
Stromberg Carby - number on the side is 2376061
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/868.jpg
Selectro hubs
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/869.jpg
Finn's carrying some memories of a past life under here
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/870.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/871.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/872.jpg
Door tops have a couple of small holes though the window channel is as good as gone. Windows still slide though!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/873.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/874.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/875.jpg
Door bottoms are similar - should i fix these or just treat the rust? I want to keep the patina on the car, but also don't want the car to rust out
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/876.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/877.jpg
Will need to patch this though. It seems to be the worst patch.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/878.jpg
Small rust in the door frame
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/879.jpg
Bulkhead seems pretty good
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/880.jpg
Though I think someones replaced the floor. It may be dodgy
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/881.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/882.jpg
Is this accelerator pedal standard?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/883.jpg
Passenger door lock
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/884.jpg
Rear axle
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/885.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/886.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/887.jpg
Rusty chassis bits - I think it's just surface, though who knows
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/888.jpg
Rear Lights - are these "porky pie" lights? I have standard replacement lenses in the cab which i will probably change to.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/08/889.jpg
And thats most of them. The full gallery is here if you ever have nothing better to do!
Cheers
Dan
Starter solenoid - you probably have the wrong connection for the 'start' wire from the ignition switch. The extra connection on the solenoid is probably one to short the coil resistor (not used on this vehicle). Connecting your start wire to this will not work. But there is also the possibility that the extra terminal is an earth terminal where the old solenoid used the mounting as earth. Another possible reason for not working could be that it is earthed via the frame of the solenoid - and this earth is ineffective. With this vehicle not using a coil resistor, it should make no difference which way the big terminals are connected.Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco-tastic
Hope this helps
I think John's answered most of your questions.
Heater is late IIa early III.
The fact that the coolant is still green doesn't mean anything, it could have lost all it's anti-corrosion properties depending on how old it is.
I can post links to the process of repairing the door bottoms if I can remember which thread it's in. Plus a lot of photos were removed by Photobucket.
Door tops are 'consumable', if they are bad it's easier to replace than try to repair.
Footwell looks like it's had a coat of underseal or bituminous paint. The floor panel is removable but the Tek screw is non-standard.
Rear lights include the reflector in the centre and are correct for the period. If you're taking them off I'd be interested in them but I'd suggest you keep them if you can.
Accelerator pedal looks fairly standard except for the hole. Maybe a pad was bolted onto it at some point.
The door lock is typical on an old Land Rover, it should have a padlock hasp on the bonnet so you can lock it with a big padlock that rattles around and removes paint in the area......
Colin
Thanks John.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
The start wire shows 12V when i turn the to the start position. This is what i would expect, and the old solenoid started the car with this wire, so I think it's OK.
I will try earthing the body of the solenoid. Due to the previous owners hack the solenoid was zip tied onto the brake booster and moved around. Could be it was in just the right position to earth.
Not looking forward to de-skinning the doors! Will have to find a good how-to!
Cheers
Dan
Thanks Colin.Quote:
Originally Posted by gromit
A write up of how to repair the door bottoms would be great, if you can find it.
I have a spare set of door tops but they're in similar condition. Can i just replace the window channel? Or is it all effectively one piece?
Thanks for the info on the lights. If they're period correct and are serviceable then I'll leave them on. :)
Cheers
Dan
John, you were right about the earthing of the solenoid. I rigged up an earth wire, and after a few turns, coughs and pops he started! Woohoo!
A small amount of smoke but after that nice and clean.
Here's a video of the second start.
Thanks all for your help :)
Theres a little bit of breathing out of the top of the valve cover cap (theres some oil stains here too). Is that normal?
Not normal. The Series 3 should have a positive crankcase breather system, and strictly speaking, needs this to be roadworthy. System has a hose from the cap on the top of the rocker cover to the elbow on the air intake above the carburettor, and a pipe from the oil filler pipe to a positive carncase ventilation valve sitting next to the carburettor and connected to a vacuum port under the carburettor.Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco-tastic
There are three likely scenarios in your case - clearly the original is not in place because there is no elbow to plumb the top cap to. The correct way to deal with this would be a connector on the underside of the air cleaner to connect this hose to, and leave everything else as is.
The second way of doing it would have been to replace both the rocker cover cap and the oil filler tube cap with the caps from the earlier models, that incorporate oil wetted air cleaners. While this is mechanically satisfactory, it is not legal, although very unlikely to be picked up.
The third, which is the most likely to have happened, is simply to remove the pipes and hoses from the crankcase ventilation system. Apart from being illegal, this means that unfiltered air is allowed to enter the crankcase, but at least it is ventilated - expect excessive engine wear due to intake of dust. A variant on this would be to replace the top cap with the earlier one, and block off the oil filler breather connection. This will at least keep the dust out and allow some crankcase ventilation, but with no circulation of air through the crankcase, expect a sludge buildup. Another variant would be to leave open the top cap hose connector but leave the PCV and plumbing to the oil filler. This is probably the worst, as it will suck dust in rather than just allow dust in. Yet another variant would be to block both breathers. This is going to lead to a buildup of pressure and will result in oil leaks and quite possibly failed crankshaft seals.