Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst ... 2345 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 48

Thread: Tips when buying your first series III

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,796
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    They were not galvanised.
    We're talking about the door cappings, tailgate hinges, windscreen frame etc.
    Galvanised on Series I, II & III but not on County onwards (maybe early Countys ?)

    In the pictures it looks like the parts that were originally galvanised have been painted.

    As has been mentioned.....To get a Series III into the condition of the one being sold would probably take more than $20K if you had to outsource a lot of the work. Will you get your money back short term most probably no so it's not an investment but it's a fast way to getting a Series III restored & ready to use.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  2. #32
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Australia has
    Posts
    10
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Thank you

    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    I don't believe that you will find a Series III that fits your needs. They were not galvanised, they are most certainly not something that " won't need any work", they seem hugely over priced, and they aren't any better than S IIs, and they lose the charm of a II or IIa. I own a S III. It's a Land Rover, no question, but my one, at least, ( 1980 ) had to comply with crash pad laws, and instrument viewing laws, and it lost all the charm of the older cars, without giving the benefits of the newer ones. In a way it was an orphan of the brief laws of the time. The only advantage of a S III in my opinion is that it will be cheaper than a Series II or a County ( I believe the designation was 90 or 110, but there is a whole murky argument right there, so I use the County to designate the first of the Defenders. You could write a book on this and end your life arguing..). The earlier Series will be dearer but will hold value, they will have the 'quaint' instrument "cluster" in the middle, and will be mechanically virtually identical, and the County will be superior in every way while still being a Land Rover. Depends on what you want, but the S III is possibly the worst car to choose barring price. No way is a S III worth 20K unless it once belonged to the Queen ( my opinion with some sarc.. ), or some old Sheik put diamonds in the switches. If I'm wrong then I'm sitting on a gold mine......

    Awesome right up so thank you, puts some things into perspective, I might start researching the 2 a or 2 also, I am not in a bug rush at all and the current global climate suits that also for a buyer. So I will keep having a look. I only like the SWB variants and want to also be able to take the roof off as I do live in QLD and tolling country side for short drives is just behind where I live.

    Thanks again for your informative info.

    So great that on here people actually take the time to write back and provide great info.

    I look forward to finding my right fit and joining the club.

    Jase

  3. #33
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Australia has
    Posts
    10
    Total Downloaded
    0

    True

    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    We're talking about the door cappings, tailgate hinges, windscreen frame etc.
    Galvanised on Series I, II & III but not on County onwards (maybe early Countys ?)

    In the pictures it looks like the parts that were originally galvanised have been painted.

    As has been mentioned.....To get a Series III into the condition of the one being sold would probably take more than $20K if you had to outsource a lot of the work. Will you get your money back short term most probably no so it's not an investment but it's a fast way to getting a Series III restored & ready to use.


    Colin
    So true I have been looking for a long time and what comes up is a lot of S III that need a big garage and work space to work on them. I do not have the luxury of owning such space. I am pretty handy Mech and just need to make sure I buying the right one. If its been painted over Gal it should be even more protected?


    Thanks for your Reply Colin.

  4. #34
    DiscoMick Guest
    Keep in mind that as prices have risen in the UK scouts have scoured Australia looking for decent condition Landys to repatriate and sell there.
    This includes JLR's Classics division, which restores them to as new and sells for big sums. One is featured in a Land Rover Monthly I'm reading now. So its getting harder to find good Series here.
    That's one reason I mentioned the Frontline vehicles, as at least they were maintained by the military.
    Good luck with your search.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,796
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Jasedefender View Post
    If its been painted over Gal it should be even more protected?
    John,
    Depends what they did to the galv before painting......
    To the purist it's not right so would devalue it.

    My Series I was fixed up (not restored) under a tarp on the driveway.
    It now has a shed but by fixing some timber on the roofrack the tarp was held off the vehicle and i lifted a section to work on it.

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    19,174
    Total Downloaded
    152.79 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    For many people the 'advantage' of a Series 3 is the all synchro gearbox - most of the modern generation have never learned to live without synchromesh.
    That's true, I'd forgotten that as I always double declutch going into first out of a long standing habit, even in the D1 with the R380.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  7. #37
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,513
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    We're talking about the door cappings, tailgate hinges, windscreen frame etc.
    Galvanised on Series I, II & III but not on County onwards (maybe early Countys ?)
    .......

    Colin
    They were galvanised up to the change to push button door handles in 1987. Not windscreen frames, as all coil sprung Landrovers had alloy frames (painted). Military ones probably continued the galvanising later, and all(?) Perenties had galvanised chassis, and I think so did the civilian 6x6s.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Adelaide Hills. South Australia
    Posts
    13,349
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Jasedefender View Post
    I am looking at buying a 1977 Series III for around $20,000 what should check before purchasing.
    Your Bank account would be a good place to start. Good luck with whatever you buy.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Westlake ,brisbane
    Posts
    3,922
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If the LR you are looking at that is in the Gumtree add , I would be asking how often it had been on the beach as one of the shots shows it on the beach.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Denmark WA
    Posts
    670
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Yep, the SIII is a great beast! But $20k, it’d need to be “perfect” or unique! I have seen a ground-up “near factory new” one at $30,000 but it was museum quality.
    The main things I think of on any of these older vehicles is, that a lot of exterior parts can be updated, restored and basically make it look great whilst leaving the drivetrain concealing... issues. A leak from the bell housing? Slipping clutch? Jumping out of gear on sudden deceleration? Weird vibrations etc? Steering gear? Tyres? Non-standard components? Need to re-license in another state? All add up pretty fast, and if you don’t do it yourself and have the time and tools, REALLY add up. Especially if you stuff up and have to do it over (or someone stuffs it up for you!). So saying, a lightweight SIII was my first car, and I still have it (not a daily drive!). There’s not much you can’t do yourself, and no computers or software to deal with. But it’s heavy, stinky, leaks rain in and water out, and has the aerodynamics and safety features of a fast moving brick smeared in, grease, oil and petrol. Heating is great too, especially if you like being kept warm on a 40°c day! And last of all, it’s not worth $20k. More like $5k in its condition, despite being unique.
    Have fun! They are great!
    And note, I’m in WA - no yearly check up!

Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst ... 2345 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!