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Thread: Rivets & Steel Wheels

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    The pan head screws should be available from any fastener provider - if you want I'll see if I can dig one out and post a picture and dimensions for you. Could take a couple of days, I'm picking up the grandkids tomorrow, and its cold and dark here now.

    Tyres would have been crossply, almost certainly in 74, although radials were starting to move into more general use by then, I don't remember them being generally available in 1974, and they were certainly a lot more expensive, and hence not usual on utility type vehicles. (having said that, I had radials on my 2a in 1966, but that was specifically for desert work, and they were hard to find and very expensive - like twice the price.

    John
    Not a landrover but we bought an XB ute new in 1975, much fuss was made about the fact that it had the optional radial tyres by the dealer so 74-75 would be correct for the changeover to radials.
    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
    2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
    MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
    1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces
    1974 F250 Highboy - Very rusty project

    Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....

  2. #32
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    Interior spare wheel mount fasteners.

    Hi Folks,

    I have just acquired an interior spare wheel mount for the bulkhead and I need the correct fasteners to hold it in place. One person has said it is just riveted to the bulkhead, whereas some parts diagrams on line show the mount is held in place by a series of screws, each with a split washer, flat washer and nut.

    the holder appears to have 8x holes, so I would require 8 of these fasteners.

    Can anyone help sourcing these genuine fasteners, or in fact was this member held onto the bulkhead using rivets???

    many thanks

    Adam

  3. #33
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    Jul 2012
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    Adam,

    Hello from Western Queensland.

    The wheel carrier would not have been riveted to the tub.

    You can cheat on the fasteners a bit if you want to. Look up the part numbers in the spare parts manual and Google that number - “Land Rover part XYZ”.

    Among the responses will be a couple of UK parts sites that give the nut, bolt or washer size. John Craddock will often list the size and thread.

    Take that size info to a local fastener outfit and most of the time you will get what you’re looking for. Especially if it is UNC or UNF. BSF is another question.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by S3ute View Post
    Adam,

    Hello from Western Queensland.

    The wheel carrier would not have been riveted to the tub.

    You can cheat on the fasteners a bit if you want to. Look up the part numbers in the spare parts manual and Google that number - “Land Rover part XYZ”.

    Among the responses will be a couple of UK parts sites that give the nut, bolt or washer size. John Craddock will often list the size and thread.

    Take that size info to a local fastener outfit and most of the time you will get what you’re looking for. Especially if it is UNC or UNF. BSF is another question.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    For BSF fasteners and BA contact Bruce Gardner who trades as B.S.F. Bolts. He is in Melbourne 0408 056 255. He did have a good supply of BA taps and dies including left hand. For BSF taps and dies and most other systems contact me.
    URSUSMAJOR

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by S3ute View Post
    Hello from Sherwood.

    There are normally three plates on the firewall.

    One is the build plate with serial numbers etc. A second is the transmission use plate with the low-high-4WD instructions etc. The third is a smaller Pressed Metal Corporation build plate.

    The style of the first two plates is unique to Series 3 trucks.

    I’m a bit surprised if UK Series 3 do have different plates - other than the PMC plate. Any that I have seen were the same as those on my Australian built truck.

    I can send you a photo if you PM me or post one up later - using my phone here
    and donÂ’t know how to upload photos from it.

    Cheers,

    Neil

    Neil, I managed to order the series 3 plates out of the UK, however do you have / or know a source for, the PMC plate that you refer to? I note it appears to be a white plate with Leyland and a body number stamped onto it.

    many thanks,

    adam

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by acf321 View Post
    Neil, I managed to order the series 3 plates out of the UK, however do you have / or know a source for, the PMC plate that you refer to? I note it appears to be a white plate with Leyland and a body number stamped onto it.

    many thanks,

    adam
    Adam,

    Hello again.

    Glad to hear that you got the plates that you wanted from the UK.

    As far as the third Leyland Australia plate goes, I’m pretty sure that you would have little chance of finding a plate other than off a wreck. The problem there is that it will have the build number of the vehicle it was originally attached to stamped on the plate. I’m not aware of anyone locally producing facsimiles of that plate.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  7. #37
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    Probably veering off topic, But Ive just finished restoring a 1949 Dodge Ute, Australian built in Adelaide from a Canadian CKD manufacture.

    The wheels are 4.5x16" steel riveted but they are safety rims, with the safety groove for the bead that I thought wasn't introduced till 70's-80's, they are correct genuine stamped 1949 , The car never had a spare so I found 2 more wheels on eBay , stamped 1948, also safety rims.


    I have them fitted with modern radials & running tubeless . VASS engineer was flabbergasted.


  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by S3ute View Post

    As far as the third Leyland Australia plate goes, I’m pretty sure that you would have little chance of finding a plate other than off a wreck. The problem there is that it will have the build number of the vehicle it was originally attached to stamped on the plate. I’m not aware of anyone locally producing facsimiles of that plate.
    I investigated getting plates made some years back.
    No problem, all they need is a sample.
    There is a setup cost then so much per plate but it works out quite expensive unless you are making a lot of plates and can sell them easily, certainly not worthwhile for a one-off.

    The Leyland plate is an aluminium square with printed details in blue, there must be a low cost way of scanning one & making a reasonable replica.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  9. #39
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    If you are only looking at appearance you can do what I did for the labels uner the light and wiper switches (1970 2a) - create them on paper using Gimp or similar, based on a scanned sample, laminate, and trim to size.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  10. #40
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    If you go to a sign shop you may be able to get some made in vinyl to stick on to alum & make your own . I had 6 made for the crown on the Royal Land Rover restoration for a friend , cost me $100 for the six they were around A4 size , I only had to supply them with a photo , also the LR signs on the front & rear of my 80" were done this way. Mulgowie Landrover-044 (Medium).jpg december downloads 221.jpg They just scan the plate & the computer dose the rest.

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