Thread: 2.6l 6-pot oil in cylinder #6 - Where is it likely coming from?!?!?!?

I think that is definitely a possibility. I’m going to see if I can get some pics with my boroscope to try and show you all the difference between what mine look like versus the extra valve guide that I have that has the recess for the o-ring. I have one that has the sequence FG R511834.

I believe the FG stands for Franz and Grubb and it has the recess.

Originally Posted by gromit

It's possible to bore and fit a liner to a valve guide, saves pressing the old guide out and the new one in.
Maybe this has been done by somebody who didn't know there was an O-ring groove.

Colin

Originally Posted by matthamilton

Well, that’s a new one for me!! I will definitely check for gaps on the caps.

I am learning more and more about these 2.6l engines. And over the years there were several changes to components in this engine.

Very good suggestion and thank you very much for providing the feedback. This thread will be very helpful for any of those rebuilding one of these engines. And if not for this specific issue, at the very least, there will be several of us on this forum that they might choose to lean on to help their project.

Back with comments and possibly pics if relevant after I check the caps.

20231030_085214VALVESRover Valves.jpg Just spent the last 2 hrs trying to find where my computer had hidden this photo, hope it is of some. help

This is fabulous!!!!! So now we know with confidence that there were two configurations!!!!

Thank you!!!! This helps tremendously.

Now I need to confirm I have the correct valves and collets and valve caps for the early version of the engine and I can leave the guides in place. Considering how hard it is finding the heads for this engine (or at least it is difficult being located in the US) I will plan to leave the existing valve guides and not risk damage to the head.

Such a relief. Thank you again!!!! So incredibly helpful!!!

Originally Posted by 1950landy

20231030_085214VALVESRover Valves.jpg Just spent the last 2 hrs trying to find where my computer had hidden this photo, hope it is of some. help

It does appear that my valve guides have had liners inserted into them. So now I'm left to decide whether I have these removed and new ones pressed in. Based on the image that 1950Landy sent me (attached below) there are two versions of this engine: early and later version. I have the early version based on the smaller shorted sized valve guides I have in this engine. I looked to see, based on the image 1950landy provided, as to whether or not there is a gap for the inlet valve o-ring to fit in the cap or between the collet and the stem. Unfortunately, I don't seem to have any space or groove or room to fit o-rings in the fashion shown in the picture from 1950landy.

At this point, I think I am going to purchase the proper valve guides with the groove in them for the o-rings. I'd like to do all I can to reduce any amount of oil finding it's way in to the cylinder.

Also, I found a stamped identification on my inlet valves: ROVER 525124. It would appear these are Trancor valves for what it's worth. Sharing this in case it matters to anyone out there. IMG_6136.jpgIMG_6139.jpgIMG_6133.jpg

Originally Posted by gromit

It's possible to bore and fit a liner to a valve guide, saves pressing the old guide out and the new one in.
Maybe this has been done by somebody who didn't know there was an O-ring groove.

Colin

Originally Posted by matthamilton

It does appear that my valve guides have had liners inserted into them. So now I'm left to decide whether I have these removed and new ones pressed in. Based on the image that 1950Landy sent me (attached below) there are two versions of this engine: early and later version. I have the early version based on the smaller shorted sized valve guides I have in this engine. I looked to see, based on the image 1950landy provided, as to whether or not there is a gap for the inlet valve o-ring to fit in the cap or between the collet and the stem. Unfortunately, I don't seem to have any space or groove or room to fit o-rings in the fashion shown in the picture from 1950landy.

At this point, I think I am going to purchase the proper valve guides with the groove in them for the o-rings. I'd like to do all I can to reduce any amount of oil finding it's way in to the cylinder.

Also, I found a stamped identification on my inlet valves: ROVER 525124. It would appear these are Trancor valves for what it's worth. Sharing this in case it matters to anyone out there. IMG_6136.jpgIMG_6139.jpgIMG_6133.jpg

Hi Matt,
I think an O-ring in the guide would be a better solution than an O-ring in the collet.
Glad you got to the bottom of it but whoever lined the guides wants to be taken outside & re-educated.....

Problem is....a lot of knowledge on older engines is slowly disappearing. An engine reconditioner I spoke with some years back didn't know what an F head engine was !!

Colin

Originally Posted by gromit

Hi Matt,
I think an O-ring in the guide would be a better solution than an O-ring in the collet.
Glad you got to the bottom of it but whoever lined the guides wants to be taken outside & re-educated.....

Problem is....a lot of knowledge on older engines is slowly disappearing. An engine reconditioner I spoke with some years back didn't know what an F head engine was !!

Colin

With the BMC range of vehicles, you fitted the spring & cap compressed the spring then fitted the seal on the valve stem before fitting the collets, the O ring prevented the oil from going down the valve stem & run over the outside of the cap & could not go down the guide. I think Rover may have did this by fitting it in the spring cap.
It may be an easier & cheaper option for him to have a grove machined in the cap rather than the guide & fitting a suitable o ring. Just a thought.

Originally Posted by 1950landy

With the BMC range of vehicles, you fitted the spring & cap compressed the spring then fitted the seal on the valve stem before fitting the collets, the O ring prevented the oil from going down the valve stem & run over the outside of the cap & could not go down the guide. I think Rover may have did this by fitting it in the spring cap.
It may be an easier & cheaper option for him to have a grove machined in the cap rather than the guide & fitting a suitable o ring. Just a thought.

A cheaper solution maybe but I would have thought the O-rings in the guides would be a better option.
Land Rover went to the trouble of changing for later versions of the 6-cyl.

Colin

I spoke to an engine rebuilder familiar with the 2.6l, and assuming I can get the parts, my plan is to install new inlet valves, inlet valve seats, inlet valve guides (with the recesses for the o-rings), o-rings and inlet collets. Since I have the head off I might as well do this the right way and put new hardware inside, have the valves and seats lapped properly by the machine shop and get this head correct.

Just as a recap, I determined that someone previously pressed in liners into my inlet valve guides thereby covering the o-ring recesses. I’ve provided pictures of the various parts just to record and document in this thread.

IMG_6143.jpgIMG_6139.jpgIMG_6136.jpgIMG_6140.jpg

More to report when I have the parts in hand. Again, as always, I thank everyone for their input. Hopefully, we’re all learning something.

Originally Posted by gromit

A cheaper solution maybe but I would have thought the O-rings in the guides would be a better option.
Land Rover went to the trouble of changing for later versions of the 6-cyl.

Colin