Thread: 1975 -109 Land Rover

Originally Posted by dmax

Thanks mate I'll keep that in mind, are these diesel engines non turbo ?

From what I'm reading so far on here, is the drive line in the petrol engine models. It's not as robust so to speak. ?

Yes, pretty sure they delete the turbo

The 200Tdi is easier to install I believe but now much harder to find. The 300Tdi involves a bit more work.

Lots of info tucked away on this forum, use the search function at the bottom of the page 'Search AULRO.com ONLY !'


Engineering a 200Tdi into a series 3

300 tdi into series 3


Colin

So are you saying swap the bolt into the drain oil one to stop water from getting in ?

Yes. But only when crossing a river.

Also the guy I bought the vehicle off, he has a Farley overdrive unit that he's willing to sell to me.

The unit from visual perspective looks in good order, after driving it home it definitely needs a overdrive.

I'm thinking of buying it due to the fact it's a lot cheaper than the roamer overdrive unit, what's everyone's thoughts on the Farley overdrive ?

And yes the rear main seal and sump gasket has to be changed.

Fairey. I had no problem with my Fairey overdrive, but I regularly checked the oil level to make sure it wasn't overflowing into the transfer case. But I understand they had a tendency to leak oil into the transfer case and consequently wear out their gears.

Now, as to whether you really need an overdrive. If you really need a car for high speed, long distance touring, what on earth are you doing with a Series Landrover? But if you need a rugged bush car that you can throw a deer in the back, hose out after a trip and that anyone with a set of spanners and an ounce of mechanical nouse can maintain, then a Series Landrover is tops. Personally, I reckon a SIII LWB 2.25 petrol hardtop with a suffix D gearbox, additional fuel tank and capstan winch is still my ideal bush vehicle (and I love my D4 and I take it everywhere I took the SIII except for ridiculously deep river crossings). But getting there can be problematic. 80km/h on a freeway is not a lot of fun and we won't speak about the noise because you wouldn't hear me anyway...
So I learnt to consider the trip starting as soon as I left home and never to be in a rush to get to the bush. That is, to enjoy the journey more than anticipating the destination. Very Zen, but it worked for me.
However, and I'm contradicting myself here, I did fit an overdrive and it did make for a more relaxing highway drive. It was also very handy in the bush (I'm talking Vic Alps here) as it allowed me to stay in low range a little bit longer on those bits of tracks that really didn't need low range, but would in a few turns.
So, first decide whether you need the Fairey. Then consider what condition it's in. And the price, I suppose. I understand parts may be hard to come by, but I'm not sure.

The Fairey overdrive is reasonably reliable if looked after, but is definitely a potential point of failure - it is only intended to be used in third and fourth gear, but using it in the lower gears with lots of throttle is asking for trouble. Also, its oil reservoir is pretty small, and it is not unusual for it to transfer oil into the transfer case, and running without oil or even very low oil leads to disaster. And even in good condition, they tend to howl, often exacerbated by the operating mechanism touching the bodywork. But then the transfer case on Series Landrovers is usually far from silent!

The coupling to the gearbox output shaft depends on the lubrication it was assembled with - the transfer case oil will not reach it. Failure of this means no drive either with or without overdrive selected. To check this lubrication, the overdrive must be removed.

Parts are usually hard to find, and expensive, but they are fairly easy to work on.

In my view, the overdrive is not necessary with any of the Rover engines, at least for the lwb or a swb fitted with lwb tyres. However, with some replacement engines, including most Holdens, something is needed to raise the gearing, and an overdrive is simpler, easier, and more reversible than the alternatives of different diff ratios or a revised transfer case.

(Spoken from my experience - my 2a has a Fairey, which I overhauled myself. But I rarely use it, although it can be handy to split between 3 and 4 and as a slightly higher ratio when travelling significant distances in low range to avoid stopping to change back into low range fifty metres on at the next really rough or boggy spot.)

Another option is high-ratio gears in the transfer box.
I have them in my shorty with a 2.4 Isuzu, I was told it would struggle to pull away but there isn't an issue. With the camper on the back you have more weight and worse aerodynamics so it may not be suitable.

Low range ratio is only changed by a few percent.
The only 'issue' I have is it doesn't like top gear much below 60Kph at low throttle.

Isuzu C240 powered Series 3


Colin

Originally Posted by DieselLSE

So are you saying swap the bolt into the drain oil one to stop water from getting in ?

Yes. But only when crossing a river.

Also the guy I bought the vehicle off, he has a Farley overdrive unit that he's willing to sell to me.

The unit from visual perspective looks in good order, after driving it home it definitely needs a overdrive.

I'm thinking of buying it due to the fact it's a lot cheaper than the roamer overdrive unit, what's everyone's thoughts on the Farley overdrive ?

And yes the rear main seal and sump gasket has to be changed.

Fairey. I had no problem with my Fairey overdrive, but I regularly checked the oil level to make sure it wasn't overflowing into the transfer case. But I understand they had a tendency to leak oil into the transfer case and consequently wear out their gears.

Now, as to whether you really need an overdrive. If you really need a car for high speed, long distance touring, what on earth are you doing with a Series Landrover? But if you need a rugged bush car that you can throw a deer in the back, hose out after a trip and that anyone with a set of spanners and an ounce of mechanical nouse can maintain, then a Series Landrover is tops. Personally, I reckon a SIII LWB 2.25 petrol hardtop with a suffix D gearbox, additional fuel tank and capstan winch is still my ideal bush vehicle (and I love my D4 and I take it everywhere I took the SIII except for ridiculously deep river crossings). But getting there can be problematic. 80km/h on a freeway is not a lot of fun and we won't speak about the noise because you wouldn't hear me anyway...
So I learnt to consider the trip starting as soon as I left home and never to be in a rush to get to the bush. That is, to enjoy the journey more than anticipating the destination. Very Zen, but it worked for me.
However, and I'm contradicting myself here, I did fit an overdrive and it did make for a more relaxing highway drive. It was also very handy in the bush (I'm talking Vic Alps here) as it allowed me to stay in low range a little bit longer on those bits of tracks that really didn't need low range, but would in a few turns.
So, first decide whether you need the Fairey. Then consider what condition it's in. And the price, I suppose. I understand parts may be hard to come by, but I'm not sure.

Thank you all for your knowledge and help.

The overdrive is more fuel economy to a degree and not reving so hard.

I was actually talking to my good mate about how relaxing it is not being in a rush.when driving the Landy.

And anything over 80kph in these type of vehicle's is not a smart choice you know.

Well it passed blue slip today with no worries, so now it's turning my attention to fixing the oil and service.

Cheers Jason

Originally Posted by gromit

Another option is high-ratio gears in the transfer box.
I have them in my shorty with a 2.4 Isuzu, I was told it would struggle to pull away but there isn't an issue. With the camper on the back you have more weight and worse aerodynamics so it may not be suitable.

Low range ratio is only changed by a few percent.
The only 'issue' I have is it doesn't like top gear much below 60Kph at low throttle.

Isuzu C240 powered Series 3


Colin

Hi all,

So after speaking to a young mechanic at British parts store at Tuggerah, he advised against the overdrive unit due to the big camper on the back.

I spoke to him about how it's quite tippy and slight steering issues ( a bit to much free play in the steering wheel).

He said it wouldn't help with the camper on the back , which would possibly get caught by the wind and lift the front end.

After checking out my vehicle, he noticed the front wheels have a feathered or tapered edge on the outside.

He he suggested a wheel alignment, but he also suggested increasing the wheel track of the vehicle which would help the vehicle not be tippy when going around corners etc.

0 offset with a 265 tyre

I will invest in suspension down the track, but I believe increasing the wheel track now will help with better road manners.

Now I understand by going to a bigger wheel size will zap power and use more fuel.

I will down the track redo the camper with a pop top etc.

And will possibly go a diesel down the track.

What's everyone's thoughts on wider wheel track ?


Cheers Jason

Wider tyres -

Series Landrovers have long travel springs and no sway bar front or rear to ensure good articulation offroad. Without suspension modifications, I seriously doubt they will improve the "tippy" effect of carrying the camper.

Remember that you have no power steering! And wider tyres will also probably require adjust ment of the steering stops to prevent the tyres rubbing against the chassis, increasing the already pretty dismal turning circle.

Wider tyres are likely to mean new wheels, and while the stud pattern is the same as Defenders, few wheels designed for them will fit over the Series hubs, and some are not compatible with drum brakes.

Steering play:- carefully check where it is; steering box (unlikely), pitman arm on steering box (possible); tie rod ends (most likely); steering relay, including movement on splines top and bottom, unit loose in chassis (possible); steering arm loose on swivel housing (unlikely); swivel bushes (likely); *Spring bushes (likely); broken spring leaf (unlikely); wheel bearings (unlikely); loose wheel nuts (it happens!); loose U-bolts (possible). From * check rear as well!

Wheel alignment;- The only adjustment is toe in. Misalignment will also be caused by loose swivels or wheel bearings or a bent front axle housing, or sagged or broken springs, all possible.