The paint work looks good. Amazing how a buffer can make you a good painter. The original intention was to rebuild a couple of wrecks into one respectable vehicle.
After re-skinning the rear tub and welding fatigue cracks in the capping it is a good opportunity to re gal the removed components.
Couple of questions
I spoke to a galvanising place today and they wanted the components sand blasted prior to dipping to achieve consistent result. This I can do. They quoted around $400 for all the cappings, hinges, door frames, and other fittings. Pretty much all but the front windscreen and hood sticks.
My concern was that they wanted me to drill three 8mm holes in the door frame to allow the gal to escape and not build or bubble in the door handle area. Since these doors were originally galvanised what has changed ?
Smaller components that have moving parts like the toggle clips for the seat boxes they recommended electro plating. Iwould assume this is the same for the bonnet hold down clips with the internal spring. What have other people done or do you just paint it ? I would prefer the authenticity of galvanising.
While not stricctly original I was attempting to keep it close with a few period mechanical trade offs and a view to historic rego.
Where are you located? Price sounds very steep. You should be paying ~$1 to $1.50/kg for galvanised weight. Which should be ~$100 for all the steel bits excluding chassis and firewall. Many galvanisers jack up the price as soon as you mention car parts.
Any parts with old gal that haven't been painted over won't need blasting, their acid bath will do the job. Other parts just give them a coat of paint stripper or make youir own caustic bath for them.
I wouldn't drill any extra holes in previously galvanised parts, just get them to hang them in the right orientation.
Likewise the small bits - it sounds as if they are trying to cut down on fiddly work tying them up before dipping. It is a good idea to tie the small items yourself using fencing wire so you know they are done properly.
However i would use a different galvaniser than the one you spoke to.
Thanks for the quick reply. Located just outside South West Sydney. The company was located at Prestons. I saw another mob located over Sutherland way. Not sure if anyone has used them or has a recommendation.
Pic heavy threads are generally a winner. Some other shots of gal fittings that I have started to put back. Does not need to be concourse though I was aiming for respoectable.
Hi
I must be lucky,
have a mate who does mine for a couple of six packs, all the galv on the 49 cost me about 1 1/2 ctns of beer
their pickle should take old galv off and rust
remove any paint would be the only problem, can leave black burn like residue.
they should be able to hang it on a angle to have good run off of galv without boring new holes
I did door tops and bottoms, and windscreen etc as they were with on problems.
doing your own wiring is a good idea, make sure it is strong and tied well, if they full off they are done forever
most charge by the kg
cheers
Ian
I Agree with Isuzurover , spoke to a place in Perth to do klonks parts and he quoted me $1.50 per kg weight with the acid dip to remove paint and rust and was very helpfull.
Love your work.
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