Thread: LT 95 Clutch Fork

Hi Garry,
It wont be the clutch fork. The LT95 ones are bulletproof. Most Likely the slave or master. Brian

It could be the clutch fork pivot post ive broken 2 of them out of the casting its a weak point and i rekon is a bad design .

If this is the case best way to tell is to get under the bell housing and see if the clutch fork is able to move having a helper work the clutch pedal while you lay under and see if its moving the fork via the slave cyl .

If the slave cyl is working right then id be looking at the pivot to check this grab the fork end and see if it can be moved about at all if so the fork has either come off the pivot or the pivot post has broken away the section of the cast bell housing .

I posted pic's last time i did one and how i fixed it maby a search may find that thread best of luck its a fun job

If it is the same design as the LT95 on our Rangie, the other thing to look for is the pushrod retainer and the retainer staple on the cluth release. Both are plastic and will eventually poop themselves. Happened to us, and initially gave the same symptoms as failed hydraulics. Unfortunately the gearbox has to come off to fix...Look on the bright side..you can do your main seal while you're at it

OK - pulled out the slave cylinder and there was some brake fluid that dripped out - so some relief as I assumed I am just up for a new slave - it was a bit pitted. Located new for $70 but the thread for the rubber fluid pipe was wrong - something like Defender not early RR thread. So around the the sleever who could do mine in a couple of hours which was done - great I thought back on the road today.

In it went and after some trouble bleeding the system, the test - no go. The hydraulics are Ok - the slave was leaking but was still working. The clutch pedal has some feel in it and then goes rock hard - so the slave is coming up against something stopping movement. So broken clutch spring? probably not - most likely some 10c plastic piece in the clutch levers as suggested above. The one that holds the clutch slave rod to the fork is there and the rod is still connected but in the slave hole in the bell housing there was some black stuff that look like shredded black plastic so maybe that is it.

So tomorrow unbolt the gearbox and slide it back enough to get a good lookie see. As I do not know the maintenance history I will put in a new clutch kit, spiggot bearing etc.

How hard is it to replace the rear V8 main oil seal with the engine in place??

Is there anything else that should be done at the same time when the gearbox is disconnected from the engine?

Thanks

Garry

Depends how adventurous you want to get

In hindsight, I would have replaced gaskets and the front and rear oil seals on the TC while I had our box out. Straightforward enough to do.

Went to order parts - talking the issue through with the mechanics it would seem that one or more on the tongues on the pressure plate have broken and taken out the thrust bearing - its backing housing is black plastic which would explain the mashed up black plastic I found in the area around the slave cylinder.

As a precaution I have also ordered most of the consumable bits as part of the clutch fork operating mechanism. Now to unbolt the gearbox without dropping it on me - while the whole lot is parked on a hill (no where else to park) - managed to get the front wheels up on ramps so the vehicle is level but it is a long way to the ground for the gearbox the fall - I will stack up lots of old tyres underneath and support from above with some cross beams - at least in the 101 it is easy to get at from above. The claim is that a gearbox can be removed from a 101 in less than 1 hour - I don't think so but is quicker and easier than a RR or County.

My main problem is man handling it back together when I have put in the clutch.

Cheers

Garry