If it won't go on aerostart, its ignition.....or stupidly flooded
Timing, advance till it pings, or becomes hard to crank, then retard till both symptoms are no longer, do so on whatever petrol you choos to run, this is optimal timing, without changing advance curves etc
Timing marks and figures are just a base line...they are NOT optimum timing/advance
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Engine started again perfectly this morning but gets harder to start as the engine gets hotter. I will see what happens with new plugs etc.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Garry, does this engine have good compression? And did you say the spark is OK?
The reason I am asking about compression is that the amount of vacuum available to lift the carb slides during cranking is reduced dramatically with worn valves/ rings etc, therefore making it difficult to get adequate fuel/ air for ignition. Cold starts are slightly different because the choke dumps extra fuel in rather than choking off air like other 'lesser' carbs.(I have seen a early flapper type EFI 3.5 have such low compression that it barely opened the flap during cranking enough to trip the fuel pump contacts)
Anyway, just a thought....
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
I have no reason to doubt the level of compression - the engine pulls Ok and performance is what it should be however when I replace the plugs during the week I will do a compression test to double check. To ensure the LPG mixer was not strangling the engine (it does have a small orifice) I have taken it off while testing so the carbies are getting a full dose of air - also replaced the carby diaphragms as a precaution. The point I need to check is whether I am sucking in air somewhere but nothing is obvious.
I have only tried No 1 cylinder spark at this stage as it is too hard to test the HT lead with waterproofing gear on it. The spark is strong (I got zapped) but when cranking, the spark is not always regular - as well there is considerable spark on the points so the condenser may have failed.
So I will do the easy things first like new plugs, points and condenser and go from there.
Cheers
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Another possibility is the coil. I have had a few vehicles that at various times the coil broke down as it got hot. The motor would cough and splutter a bit as well.
have seen rotor buttons do what is happening to yours..
my first v8 disco did a similar thing and it drove me nuts for two days till i swapped the rotor and away it went.
there was no visible fault on the one that was playing up and when not under load it worked just fine.. bit of heat and load and it died...
2007 Discovery 3 SE7 TDV6 2.7
2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7 TDCi
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Faulty ignition modules will do the same, also coils, they are fine until warm, then fail, replace all ignition components
once more, if it won't run on aerostart it IS ignition trouble![]()
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