Thread: rover diff's ARE cheese!

Thanks mate - yep thought about lockers in the long run, more so for strength than their traction ability (CDL and ETC do well).

There are other weak points like the CV's I just replaced and axle splines and I suppose doing the lot in time would be the go.

Cheers

Originally Posted by rick130

Dave Ashcroft reckons pegging the diff eliminates a lot of that problem, but everyone just seems to go 80 Series centres here......

What is pegging a diff?

Dave.

Originally Posted by Mr Whippy

What is pegging a diff?

Dave.

Ashcroft Transmissions

Originally Posted by Mr Whippy

What is pegging a diff?

Dave.

My mate that is entering the OBC (out back challenge)this year has had his rover diffs Pegged , so we will see how they go he is running 37" tyres and lockers

Originally Posted by rangieman

My mate that is entering the OBC (out back challenge)this year has had his rover diffs Pegged , so we will see how they go he is running 37" tyres and lockers

Others have tried with 36" - some don't learn easy and throw money at rover drive trains with little to show, except tears.

Originally Posted by Bush65

Others have tried with 36" - some don't learn easy and throw money at rover drive trains with little to show, except tears.

true, but it would also come down to alot of other things, not saying the rover diffs can be made bullet proof by ANY means, but others have done well with them.........but in saying that if you want to be competitive these days id say youll have to drive harder than rover designs, no matter how upgraded, will allow you

one simple way to save fronts was to use R066605(?) RR cv's and the stub axle is the fuse and easliy changed.....but once again, stopages will put you out of the running.

there is a difference between trying to finsh and trying to win

Serg

What are the front and rear upgrade options that have been done with success for 35" tyres? (Twin locked naturally)
A few that spring to mind that I don't have any experience with are:

Dana 44 from a jeep,either running jeep stud pattern or what?
A lot of modifying to get the suspension mounts,diff offsets and halfshafts sorted.

Toyota centres into rover housings with 30 spline shafts and CV's,less mods but still gets expensive.

Nissan GQ/GU diffs,better brakes and strong internals but less diff clearance. Also the centred rear diff can cause vibrations.

Portals of any kind would be great but new height laws might stop that option for road registered vehicles

So what are your views to getting more strength without the side effects?

Originally Posted by THE 109

What are the front and rear upgrade options that have been done with success for 35" tyres? (Twin locked naturally)
A few that spring to mind that I don't have any experience with are:

Dana 44 from a jeep,either running jeep stud pattern or what?
A lot of modifying to get the suspension mounts,diff offsets and halfshafts sorted.

Toyota centres into rover housings with 30 spline shafts and CV's,less mods but still gets expensive.

Nissan GQ/GU diffs,better brakes and strong internals but less diff clearance. Also the centred rear diff can cause vibrations.

Portals of any kind would be great but new height laws might stop that option for road registered vehicles

So what are your views to getting more strength without the side effects?

You missed GQ/GU front and 80 series rear (which fortunately is offset). That seems to work well.

Also the sals is a great axle and can be upgraded to 1.5" axles and shaved heavily. Rear is cheap, building a front sals is a bit more involved, but not too bad.

Sals rear and GQ/GU/80ser front would also be a nice option if you wanted to use a common ratio like 4.88:1.