Thread: Not Coming up to Temperature

Originally Posted by Redback

I gave all the hoses a feel and all were hot except for the hose after the fuel cooler, if all else fails then I'll buy a new stat and start again.

Baz.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

time for the inverted coke bottle in the expansion bottle trick. That'll get it out.

According to Rave the Fuel cooler thermostat opens at 82 Deg, so this means you must get it fairly hot to get it all circulating.

According to Dave, he's right on the money Get it to circulate and get that air out. i.e. get the expansion bottle higher.

Originally Posted by feral

According to Rave the Fuel cooler thermostat opens at 82 Deg, so this means you must get it fairly hot to get it all circulating.

According to Dave, he's right on the money Get it to circulate and get that air out. i.e. get the expansion bottle higher.

Cap on or off on the expansion tank

get a 2 or 3 liter coke bottle, fill it with coolant and then upend it into the coolant tank.

start the engine with the full bottle upended into the expansion tank, cover the radiator with a blanket to promote a fast warm up then once its warmed up (say 50-60 degrees on the nanocom) drive the vehicle up onto a ramp, turn it around and then reverse it up. normally this will force all the air out of the system.

some engines for whatever reason dont want to bleed up nicely and may take a couple of shots to get right. If you dont get a decent bleed it may pay to take the bonnet off so you can watch the coolant in the bottle.


I learnt this trick (more accurately modified an old one) on a disco that just wouldnt work the heater. with the bonnet off on the up hill the expansion tank would empty and then on the down hill or flat the coolant would come up again. Prefilling the expansion tank to the top just made it purge everywhere prior to getting it up onto the ramp.

I've tried Dave's trick a few times and it works well. After my oil cooler incident I had the water flowing noise under the dash again, last time I couldn't get rid of it and the head came off. But the last time I bled it, I just did it according to rave and took it for a drive until it reached temperature and then cranked up the heater and that got rid of the air.
Only bad news is, the coolant has to be drained and replaced again, as it seems to be impossible to get rid of the oil in my coolant.

Baz, are you using the Red or Green coolant ?
If you changed from one to the other, you need to make sure all of the old one was flushed out. It turns to sludge so Im told.
Something else to try, get your spare thermo and drop it in hot and cold water to make it open and close a few times. This use to work on an old datsun with dodgy coolant(read farm dam water) when we couldn't always get new parts.
Peter.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

get a 2 or 3 liter coke bottle, fill it with coolant and then upend it into the coolant tank.

start the engine with the full bottle upended into the expansion tank, cover the radiator with a blanket to promote a fast warm up then once its warmed up (say 50-60 degrees on the nanocom) drive the vehicle up onto a ramp, turn it around and then reverse it up. normally this will force all the air out of the system.

some engines for whatever reason dont want to bleed up nicely and may take a couple of shots to get right. If you dont get a decent bleed it may pay to take the bonnet off so you can watch the coolant in the bottle.


I learnt this trick (more accurately modified an old one) on a disco that just wouldnt work the heater. with the bonnet off on the up hill the expansion tank would empty and then on the down hill or flat the coolant would come up again. Prefilling the expansion tank to the top just made it purge everywhere prior to getting it up onto the ramp.

barry shouldnt need the coke bottle trick as his drive way is about 30deg uphill!

cheers phil

Originally Posted by Zute

Baz, are you using the Red or Green coolant ?
If you changed from one to the other, you need to make sure all of the old one was flushed out. It turns to sludge so Im told.
Something else to try, get your spare thermo and drop it in hot and cold water to make it open and close a few times. This use to work on an old datsun with dodgy coolant(read farm dam water) when we couldn't always get new parts.
Peter.

Red OAT coolant only.

As Phil has said I have a very steep driveway, so I'll give the coke bottle trick a go on the driveway facing up, which will bring the top hose bleed screw up a lot higher.

Thanks everyone for your help, I've never had to do this before, it's always bled without a problem on previous occasions.

Baz.

Originally Posted by Hendrik

......But the last time I bled it, I just did it according to rave and took it for a drive until it reached temperature and then cranked up the heater and that got rid of the air.

Just correcting a possible bit of mis-information here.

Once the thermostats are all open the coolant is in circulation continuously throughout the vehicle. This includes the heater core, radiator, fuel cooler and all pipe work. This occurs even if its 50 deg outside and your air con was flat out. If fact, even with the thermostats closed the hottest coolant available is first fed through the heater core.

The heater temperature is controlled by flaps in the heater not by the blocking or stopping the coolant flow through the heater core.