Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 21

Thread: Is modifying a series exhaust worthwhile

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Safety Bay
    Posts
    8,041
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Rangier Rover View Post
    I have 2 1/4" to 2" on my 88", Runs a stage two head, cam (from UK) and SU. Had it all dynoed in years ago. It flies.
    Has a bad habit of snaping the short rear half shaft if driven hard in lower gears. Leaves the GMH powered series to dead as will sustain revs.

    The exhaust runs inside the chassis rail. I wouldnt go any bigger as low end torque may drop off a little.
    I had a similar set-up but also ran RRC diff centers and machined 120thou of the head and ran a twin barrel stromberg,driving down to cooma for the 50th birthday I had alot of heads under the bonnet after overtaking every LR I caught up too. Pat

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Morpeth NSW
    Posts
    782
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks everyone, I have it fairly planned out in my head now.

    One thing that has me stumped is the 'Muffler Question'. There are many different names out there (hot dog, glasspack, straight-through, absorption etc etc) but I am having a hard time actually defining and differentiating from them.

    Do most modern cars these days run a straight through muffler that would flow better than the chamber-type the stock series runs?

    Are "hot dogs" straight through, and packed with fibreglass or something similar? I am hoping a wreckers yard may get me something a bit better than the stock series muffler.

    Thanks again,

    Sam

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Morpeth NSW
    Posts
    782
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I thought I should clear this thread up for future reference, from my position.

    I took the 2a to an exhaust shop and gave old mate the least amount of direction possible. "I want a 2.25 inch system, extractors are in the back, go nuts (essentially)".

    Here are some visuals of the system all fitted up.

    How the extractors look


    Where they connect up to the new system. They dump well below the gearbox crossmember, but they did the diligent thing for a 4wd and bent it nicely up above the chassis rail


    From there it comes up back and inside the rail:


    Where it connects through a tight bend to a resonator and then over the diff:


    It then turns into the Muffler:


    Where it then dumps behind the rear drivers wheel:


    So far, my conclusions are thus:

    -I haven't had the time, inclination or dough to put it onto a dyno, but I am quite sure power and torque has increased significantly throughout the rev range. How I gauge this is the fact that I can keep the car easily in 4th gear up hills I had previously had to drop back to 3rd instead of gathering momentum and putting the foot down a fair bit.

    -acceleration has increased a little bit, but nothing major.

    -the system I have is SUPER quiet. The resonator and large muffler combo keeps the 2.25 VERY quiet. The adage "silence means restriction" has me a little worried that the muffler choice is not the best. Honestly, I miss poking my head out the window and hearing that great chug, but it is no more. After a little while, I will look into splicing in a straight through/perforated type muffler that may run (and sound) a little better.

    -I'm not sure about efficiency yet. I may be more rapid, but not neccesarily more efficient. I will have to do a full tank of mixed driving before I have any idea.

    -If you want a better running 2.25 and dont mind spending a couple of dollars, it is definately worth it.

    Sam

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    the adage that silence is slow is wrong.

    you can make an effecient system that is quite. It just costs more than doing a straight out pipe set with no muffling.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    29
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Manifold issues?

    When you remove the standard exhaust manifold to put the extractors in will the inlet manifold operate ok without any modification? Aren't the two original manifolds sort of joined below the carby?

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Morpeth NSW
    Posts
    782
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi Kodez.

    Yes.

    One issue with the extractors/headers is that they do not use the 'heater box' feature that can serve to warm the fuel by the two manifolds coming in contact together. I haven't had any problems without this, and have read that it only comes into play in cold climates. There are some empty bolt holes, but it doesn't matter.

    Sam

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Safety Bay
    Posts
    8,041
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Sam,if you can live without it for a month I'd send the dizzy to the UK for a rebuild,that one thing makes the world of difference and with the Zenith wind the fuel screw all the way in and see if it stops,if it doesn't it needs rebuilding also. Pat

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
    Posts
    17,285
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by PAT303 View Post
    Sam,if you can live without it for a month I'd send the dizzy to the UK for a rebuild,that one thing makes the world of difference and with the Zenith wind the fuel screw all the way in and see if it stops,if it doesn't it needs rebuilding also. Pat

    Why send it to the UK ?

    There are some very good dizzy builders here.

    BTW, what's the bottom end of the dizzy the same as ? BMC A series and Ford 4 cyl ?

    If so, Performance Ignitions (Scorcher) in Melbourne can build a new Bosch based dizzy with either points or electronic and all service parts are off the shelf Bosch.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Morpeth NSW
    Posts
    782
    Total Downloaded
    0
    My fuel screw definitely works when wound in, I seem to have a constant running battle with finding the right idle/mixture setting, esp with changing hot and cold days.

    I was considering for a little while installing elec ignition with a higher output coil, but I am starting to think a fresh dizzy would give better gains. The motor is running really well and feels like it could pull a 5th gear on the freeway, but I am just wanting to modernise the old motor a little bit and get it running nice and efficiently.

    My last big day on the road (mixed driving, but mostly highway) gave 13l/100km. I'm pretty happy with that.

    Sam

  10. #20
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Safety Bay
    Posts
    8,041
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Why send it to the UK ?

    There are some very good dizzy builders here.

    BTW, what's the bottom end of the dizzy the same as ? BMC A series and Ford 4 cyl ?

    If so, Performance Ignitions (Scorcher) in Melbourne can build a new Bosch based dizzy with either points or electronic and all service parts are off the shelf Bosch.
    I have no doubt there is good blokes here but I did a search and found a well known guy in the UK that only does LR models and my 2.25 started first time every time after he done it.I found the timing to be so accurate I could adjust the fine tune nut on the side to petrol and LPG perfectly. Pat

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!