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Thread: D1 over-heating at times

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Perth WA
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    D1 overheating at times

    Hi Shaun,

    I would replace the expansion tank (radiator) cap.

    Had the same situation with my D1, V8i changed thermostat flushed radiator and still would spike and percolate, experts said it has to be a head gasket...$2,500K later after they removed heads (head gasket was OK) tracked it down to expansion tank cap........

    Also check that engine and hoses filled with water because they don't have a air bleeder valve you could have a pocket of air in system. Have to squeeze radiator hose to push water around system and keep filling radiator via bung.

    Everytime my D1 overheats or spikes I change the radiator cap and it seem to do the trick.

    Cheers

    Baggy

  2. #22
    Disco1Newbee Guest
    Hi,

    Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the back of the instrument cluster and showing where the earth / ground wires should be terminating.

    Thanks

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Goolwa SA - but top ender forever
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disco1Newbee View Post
    Thanks for the info.. Will definately check out the watchdog.

    You mention an airlock? Where exactly would the airlock be happening?

    Thanks
    Shaun

    standing at the front of the engine looking back, on the right hand side of the engine is a steel tube with a riser on it and a (plastic or brass) cap, it's about half way along and above the rocker cover. This is the highest point in the coolant system and is there so that you can bleed out any air that is trapped in the system. run the engine so it has positive pressure but not hot crack the cap if coolant comes straight out no problems, otherwise wait until it does (keeping an eye on the collant level in the header tank)

  4. #24
    Disco1Newbee Guest
    Thanks for the info.

    Tried finding the riser you referring to and unable to locate it.

    Attached is an image of the engine if someone could point me in the direction where the riser should be located.

    Thanks


  5. #25
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Unfortunately ... your model does not have it ... They had it in that position up till about 1995 'ish ? ... LR deleted it & extended those 2 black hoses




    To bleed a difficult air pocket ... Find a hill / or a set of car ramps and get the nose of the car up in the air

    Start it and warm it up to temp

    Take the bleed bung on the TOP L/H side of the radiator to get all the air out of the radiator ... as this will now be the highest point
    Massage & squeeze the top radiator hose to help remove the air



    Just out of interest tho .... Does the Heater in the cabin work well ... or does it just blow luke warm air?



    Cheers
    Mike

  6. #26
    steve_35 Guest
    Check your timing
    I had the same problem for the last couple of days

    It turned out my dizzy had come loose and backed of the timing causing it to overheat

    Not boil just run a little hotter than it should

    it also caused the car not to start it would just click


    I moved the dizzy about 3 degrees anti clockwise and problem solved

  7. #27
    Disco1Newbee Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post

    Just out of interest tho .... Does the Heater in the cabin work well ... or does it just blow luke warm air?

    Cheers
    Mike
    Hi Mike,

    It's only blowing warm air, doesn't get hot.

    Also, if the temp are on hot and I switch the sitcom switch on, it starts blowing cold air. Also the temp gauge starts showing cooler than normal (like it's reversed)

    Thanks
    Shaun

  8. #28
    Disco1Newbee Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    Love all the electronic stuff ..... but analogues never tell ferbies

    .... Good ol' gauges ....

    ... You even get to score a oil pressure gauge ..... (after you have altered the fittings)


    Cheers
    Mike
    Hi Mike,

    I purchased the gauges you recommended.

    Unfortunately the Temp probe doesn't fit on the D1 temp probe chamber.

    Have you managed to fit it (assumption is you purchased the gauge )

    Thanks
    Shaun

  9. #29
    lewy is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    darwin
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    my temp guage got hot when the earth strap from the battery was loose,tdi but worth a look

  10. #30
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Disco1Newbee View Post
    Hi Mike,
    I purchased the gauges you recommended.
    Mmm .... was only answering your request for "where can you buy some"

    Quote Originally Posted by Disco1Newbee View Post
    Anyone know where i can get an analog temp gauge in the Brisbane area?
    Regards
    Shaun






    Quote Originally Posted by Disco1Newbee View Post

    Unfortunately the Temp probe doesn't fit on the D1 temp probe chamber.

    Have you managed to fit it (assumption is you purchased the gauge )

    Thanks
    Shaun

    I take it that it has a "long copper bulb for a probe" on a length of copper looking wire

    The probe goes in the top radiator hose under the clamp at the thermostat housing area ... should come complete with a wedge shaped piece of rubber to insert it with ... If the fitting weeps ... Use a bit of "Holimar 3" to help seal it up

    The analogue gauge will help give you a second opinion to your electric gauge version ..

    I have no need for the temp gauge ... But I do use the oil pressure gauge




    Your answer of a luke warm cabin heater (not Hot) may be a suggestion to a blocked heater core ... which can give problems


    BUT ... As others have said ... Try to exhaust this earth strap / or gauge fault business issue


    Cheers
    Mike

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