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Thread: DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid

  1. #1
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    DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid

    According to the bottle of dot4 brake fluid, it is compatible with all dot3 systems, is this the right stuff for a series 3 brake and clutch system? It seems to be thinner and a similar colour to petrol, whereas the stuff in the car now is thicker and green like 2 stroke oil? Just tried to bleed my clutch after putting a new slave cylinder on it and now the pedal seems to have no resistance apart from the pedal spring. Was this the wrong fluid to use or do I have master cylinder issues?

  2. #2
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    Brake fluids are normally backward compatible ie DOT 4 is suitable for DOT 3 etc. but not forward compatible. From memory the DOT rating is related to the fluid's boiling point.
    Silicon brake fluid (DOT 5) is a different issue and isn't compatible with anything else.
    Different manufacturers use different colours so the colour isn't important but the difference in viscosity is a worry.

    If you've bled all of the air out of the system and the clutch slave cylinder is new then it may be a problem with the master cylinder.

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  3. #3
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    and further to what Grommit has said, colour means nothing with brake fluids, all manufacturers/blenders use a different colour to each other within the same spec, it's only dye

  4. #4
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    That was what I had thought. Before I fitted the new slave I let the fluid drain out so when it was refilled it had all new fluid in it. It feels like my master cylinder plunger (innards) are stuck all the way in because the clutch is very light and obviously is not engaging (didn't start her and try but you know what a clutch should feel like and this ain't it!!!) I think if I took the pedal spring off the pedal would flop.

    Also according to the book, the bleed valve should be at the top but mine was fitted (and working) with the valve at the bottom. I have fitted this way again but with the bleed screw pointing upwards (using the little Y piece) so it is actually above the inlet - would this still be ok? Or should I ditch the y junction altogether and try and fit it the other way round?)

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by pfillery View Post
    That was what I had thought. Before I fitted the new slave I let the fluid drain out so when it was refilled it had all new fluid in it. It feels like my master cylinder plunger (innards) are stuck all the way in because the clutch is very light and obviously is not engaging (didn't start her and try but you know what a clutch should feel like and this ain't it!!!) I think if I took the pedal spring off the pedal would flop.

    Also according to the book, the bleed valve should be at the top but mine was fitted (and working) with the valve at the bottom. I have fitted this way again but with the bleed screw pointing upwards (using the little Y piece) so it is actually above the inlet - would this still be ok? Or should I ditch the y junction altogether and try and fit it the other way round?)

    I think that your problem is that you let ALL of the fluid out. Now, firstly you must bleed the master cyl, usually by cracking the pipe connection at the m/c. When you have fluid coming out of the connection, tighten it up and then try bleeding the slave cyl. If this does not work, maybe a new m/c is in order. Bob

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by scruffy View Post
    I think that your problem is that you let ALL of the fluid out. Now, firstly you must bleed the master cyl, usually by cracking the pipe connection at the m/c. When you have fluid coming out of the connection, tighten it up and then try bleeding the slave cyl. If this does not work, maybe a new m/c is in order. Bob

    I've never had a problem bleeding a LR clutch or brake system (other than the brakes on a Series 1) via the bleed nipple(s) so I don't think the problem is related to letting all the fluid out.
    A seal kit for the master cylinder is only a few dollars all you need is that and some rubber grease and you should be able to overhaul the master cylinder. Replacement master cylinders are readily available but it may be better to get a stainless steel liner fitted to yours, a much longer operating life than fitting a new one..
    Most good brake companies will be able to organise this for you, last time I checked it was about $80 plus the cost of the seal kit.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

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