Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Engine miss when hot

  1. #1
    cmart2007 Guest

    Engine miss when hot

    Hi all, i have 98 d1, it has a bad miss when it gets hot, on petrol or lpg i have replaced the spark plugs, plug leads and coil, now im sratching my already bald head.
    Cheers Chris

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Hobart, TAS
    Posts
    246
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If it will miss for you at idle try taking the connector from the top of each injector 1 by 1. If you take one off and the miss gets worse reconnect it and keep dosconnecting the others. Eventually you will take one of the connectors off and the miss will not change. If you can find which

    This will help you to identify exactly (hopefully) which cylinder has the missfire and you can continue your diagnosis from there.

    PS. I am not sure how hard the injector connectors are to get to on a V8 Rover as I have not seen one in a very long time.

    Hope this helps

    Dave

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Crafers West South Australia
    Posts
    11,732
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Sounds possibly like a dying ignition amp, very common. Repair/replacement/upgrade of ignition amp required. My upgrade here:

    Lucas ignition amplifier replacement by Bosch 024

  4. #4
    cmart2007 Guest

    still no luck

    still no luck, have replaced ign mod, plugs, plug leads, coil, and still runs real bad on petrol, will not run on LPG, cap and rotor only year old and look good, any thoughts
    Cheers Chris

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Quambatook
    Posts
    39
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I was going to suggest the ignition mod, but as that's not the problem i would give andrew a call at Les richmond in melb. Tell them what you have tried and they may be able to help over the phone. Otherwise, take it to them and your landy will soon be happy as can be

  6. #6
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by cmart2007 View Post
    cap and rotor only year old and look good, any thoughts

    I'm zeroing in on ... which rotor did you buy? .... (and the cap while we are at it) ....

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Newman WA
    Posts
    889
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Well its time to do a wet and dry compression check isnt it !! just to make sure it isnt valve/headgasket/lifter/cam /pushrod/rocker arm related . If it indeed is just the one cylinder , then pulling the plugs might tell you want you need to know , You changed the plugs, did you notice anything with the old plugs ?

  8. #8
    cmart2007 Guest

    still there

    I have checked compressions fuel flow, i started it about midday, really hot here! started and ran like a clock, held revs at 2500rpm and watched temp gauge climb to normal ,3 min max as soon as it hit normal engine almost stopped missed badly, now this could only mean spark line, has anyone had problems with hall affecks in the dizzy?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Crafers West South Australia
    Posts
    11,732
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by cmart2007 View Post
    I have checked compressions fuel flow, i started it about midday, really hot here! started and ran like a clock, held revs at 2500rpm and watched temp gauge climb to normal ,3 min max as soon as it hit normal engine almost stopped missed badly, now this could only mean spark line, has anyone had problems with hall affecks in the dizzy?
    Dissy pick-up on a '98 D1 is magnetic and is not usually prone to heat damage. It either works or it doesn't. The ignition amp may behave this way. The coil may sometimes be worse when hot. But my money is on loose or dirty connectors around the coil and amp. Pull off EVERY connector that carries current, squash gently with pliers, push back on. It should take some force to connect.

    Next possibility is damage to the anti-theft system. (spider?) You could hot-wire the positive side of the ignition coil, or use a relay and take power from the battery, operate the coil +12V with a new wire from the ignition switch.

    Best of luck. Remember electric current passes through clean metal-to metal connections. Oil, paint, dirt and rust are very poor conductors.

  10. #10
    cmart2007 Guest

    Yee ha!!!!!!!

    Thanks all, for your feedback, now totally bald, i have found the problem did the unplug of sensor trick and lo and behold coolant temp sensor dead, i will get a new one monday, once again many thanks.

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!