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Put the washer bottle back in, bastard things are still not working properly, but I'll get there.
Put my other aerial back on, ran the hoses for my headlight washers after cutting off those :censored: :censored: :censored: R type clips, and of course they're too short.
I now reek of WD40, I'm covered in dirt and not entirely satisfied with todays work.
But it's better than having a Toyota
All for the want of an $18 set of clic-r pliers. :angel: There are clic-r clips all over the D2: PAS hoses, coolant bleed hose, fuel cooler body clips, head light washer hoses spring to mind, so they are a very useful addition to the D2 tool kit. You are familiar with the alternative already. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco Muppet
Did an engine oil and filter change, and got hit by a squall in the middle of the operation. Joy!
Installed the heavy tracks and immediately regretted adjusting them +1 full turn from soft which equates to a 40% increase in rebound stiffness. So they have to come out again today to reset them back to stock. The ride with the current settings is quite firm and a bit jittery. I don't think I could bear driving 4000km over then next two weeks with them as is knowing I could have reset them with a couple of hours work. :(
Replaced the diff lock switch, which was a bit fiddly to get at. Dropping the prop shaft definitely helped with access. In the end the switch mechanism was fine but the two terminals were very loose on the rivets that hold them in place. One terminal came away with the Lucar when I disconnected the harness. Comparing the Topix workshop manual with the old RAVE pdf it's apparent that there are a number of detail differences. The sealant listed in the pdf was an obscure Hylomar aero grade item, whereas the version on Topix lists a current STC part number which resolves to the easily obtainable Loctite 243.
Updated: Did the shock readjustment this afternoon. Not too bad, and didn't bother jacking the D2 this time around. It's slightly slower undoing the bottom mounts but that is the only downside. The time saving of not needing to jack the car up, then remove and replace wheel more than makes up for it.
cheers
Paul
:censored: clic-r clips!Quote:
Originally Posted by OffTrack
I hate them! Replace them all with Jubilee clips!
:D
I'll get a set soon...
Well, for today - Forgive me Land Rover gods, for I have sinned.
I installed a UHF into a mates triton today....:angel:
Actually was easier than working on a D2...
Received a package from Ben at APT fabrications,
Roughly twenty minutes later my new steering guard was installed.
I'm impressed with the quality and finish of the product that he makes and sells, will be buying a few other things off him for my landy's.
fitted a slide out drawer in the rear of the 130
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/03/833.jpg
I was going to start fitting this, but I don't have the hubs and one bearing has been supplied incorrectly, so now it will be next weekend.
New rear trailing arm rubbers and a new brake line to the near side caliper.
Brake line fatigue fractured on the way to Innaminka. By of bush mechanics and brakes again. Lasted all the way home 3000k's.
Not your normal stuff that people do on a land rover. Joys of owning a hybrid with custom suspension. I have adjustable radius and trailing arms, in fact all the arms adjustable. Thursday I went to get the front end aligned and was told the drop arm ball joint is not good and left front wheel was forward more compared to the right front. Go figure :confused: :( Does explain why it needed a look at alignment wise. Clamped a square tube behind and against the cross member under the gear box. The tube stuck out either side of the ute enough to measure from.Took some measurements from the tube and found the back axle was square and the front was out. So adjusted the left radius arm and all is good now. Old ute is a ninety nine and seven eights inch wheel base. :D Also gave the oil filter a clean. Dam messy job. Still on the to do list this weekend is a wiring issue with a rear right brake light, see about the movement in the transfer front out put and remove the winch so I can fit another winch.
Cheers Hall
Ok, just a follow up.Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
Today I found why my Disco is not driving.
(prop+tailshaft spinning but no drive)
Front CV smashed and rear MD axles + drive flanges stuffed. I originally bought the rear diff 2nd hand and it looks like the axles have been wearing in the drive flanges for some time now
(note to self: check more thoroughly before spending $1500 on a 2nd hand diff!)
I have made an inquiry regarding replacements @ mrautomotive and awaiting reply.
Meanwhile here are a couple of pics of my -not so good CV :o
http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/4778/qju8.jpg
http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/8066/5gj6.jpg
-Jarrod