Printable View
spent 3 hours plus kneeling in sludge trying to remove the drivers side wing. Every nut and bolt seized. A couple just sheered off relatively quickish which was nice. All the others didn't. Which wasn't very nice at all. Most bolt heads were munted and I couldn't get a spanner or anything else to hold onto them. Ended up having to sacrifice the mud guard to help with access to the door pillar bolts. Mudguard had largely had it thankfully.
cheers,
D
Checked all the remaining bolts with a torque wrench - the majority were 20 to 25Nm, one was 45Nm and one broke at less than 20Nm. The picture below shows the bolt head that broke at less than 20Nm alongside the one that had been tossed around for a while.Quote:
Originally Posted by johntins
The torque setting for these bolts is 58Nm :o
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/06/797.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/06/798.jpg
I wonder if the bolts have broken due to the crown wheel moving as the result of undertorquing rather than overtorquing?
And is this diff 'as manufactured, or has it been worked on before?
John
AFAIK this is the first time the diff has been out of the vehicle, having done 200,000 kms.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
I think you're correct as far as movement of the crown wheel being the root cause of the shearing but I doubt that it would have lasted 200,000 kms if they had been undertorqued. The other two Defenders that I know of that experienced the same problem had each done about 147,000 kms. I know of a fourth Defender that has done 150 to 200k kms and I think has had the same problem a few weeks ago - haven't removed the diff yet so not sure.
That bolt looks like it's only been holding by about 30%, or am I seeing is wrong? You did say that one gave the appearance of being sawn through. Long shot, but I'm wondering if there was a faulty batch back then.
Dave Ashcroft would probably be the best person to answer. You could PM him.
I have rebuilt many diffs. I do them up with a rattle gun and I have never had a bolt failure.
Having worked in an assembly environment, it's quite possible to get a faulty batch of bolts. We used to get this a bit, especially when we'd have to change suppliers for whatever reason. QC's would check incoming parts, but sometimes, offending boxes could be missed. Its then not hard to miss them on the assembly line.
Theoretically, you could have the bolts checked for spec, especially if you had a whole one, but having being stretched/distorted, it would'nt be quite right anyway. But they could certainly check hardness.
Removed the front diff from a friend's 2006 Td5 Defender a few days ago and found that the heads of six CW bolts had sheared. Although there was only minimal damage to the CW & P, the pinion bearing had lost about 4 or 5 rollers and the bearing cage was jammed between the CW & P.
After inspecting the sheared and almost sheared bolts, the local recommended diff expert confirmed that the bolts had been over torqued, probably by using a rattle gun.
Some pics of the second diff I've removed in the last week. :o
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/06/684.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/06/685.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/06/686.jpg
Hmm - something missing here. Maybe I was a bit vigorous when I backed into a sandbank on Cooloola beach to avoid an incoming wave last Saturday. Oh well, guess I'll add a new mudguard to the list of jobs for the 80,000 km service.
Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app
There you go - fixed it for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoMick
If you shorten the mudflaps a bit they don't get caught on the tyre and get ripped off.