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Thread: 300tdi flywheel locking tool

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Touringlandy View Post
    Hi All
    I am in the middle of doing this job and am having a real battle undoing the bolt!

    First dumb question Is the thread left or right hand thread? I assume it is left hand
    Secondly how to hold it all still when hand brake difflock lowrange and footbrake together do not hold?
    Cheers guys
    HeHe mistake no.1! Put box in high range and 4th gear, otherwise your bar will drive you out the end of the shed. Think of stalling the engine. Undo to the left.

    Easier still use the locking bolt as mentioned.

  2. #12
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    Sep 2007
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    Ocean Reef WA
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    The mechanic that did my belt had to use a rattle gun and remove the rad to undo it as it was so tight. No amount of trying to just flicking the key or straining on a bar would undo it.
    Then he left his socket rachet on the bolt and started the engine....bang bang bang which didn't do the radiator any good at all!!!
    Oh well, we all make mistakes.
    AlanH.

  3. #13
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    Jan 1970
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    FWIW here's the crank holding tool I made.

    I cut the stock, a mate turned and welded it for me.





  4. #14
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    Oct 2011
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    I intend to make my flywheel locking tool, can anyone tell me what the wading plug tread in the flywheel housing is? (I don't have the wading plug) - thanks

  5. #15
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    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #16
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    Oct 2011
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    Well, I did the job. Undid crank pulley bolt by bracing breaker bar against chasis member and turning starter, undid with no problems. The pulley needed a puller to remove it but it was not difficult. I only used a 9.5mm drill bit to lock the pump, the flywheel I just put in place by sight but did not use a locking tool. But I did mark all the pulleys and old belt, then transferred the marks to the new belt. And finally to do up the crank bolt I locked it with a cold chisel.

    PS what are the threads for the timing cover and flywheel housing wading plugs?

    PPS managed to wrestle the fan shroud in and out without removing the top hose, but I may as well have as I think the 'P' gasket is leaking.

  7. #17
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    Jan 1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by toc_bat View Post
    [snip]
    PS what are the threads for the timing cover and flywheel housing wading plugs?

    [snip]
    1/4" BSPT (19TPI)

    [edit] and here's a pic of the tool I made beside the OE plug


  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Narrogin WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by toc_bat View Post
    l.

    PS what are the threads for the timing cover and flywheel housing wading plugs?
    Check Dave's link - there is an illustration there,

    Cheers Charlie

  9. #19
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    Jan 1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazza View Post
    Check Dave's link - there is an illustration there,

    Cheers Charlie
    Wrong thread and dimension, although it'll probably work if you aren't too ham fisted.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    PERTH
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    I use an R380 reverse switch. It fits the flywheel housing ok and you can hear the plunger click into place in the flywheel. So far it has survived undoing and doing up the crank bolt.

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