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14th September 2011, 07:52 PM
#11
The thin plate on my 93 RRC v belt motor simply slides on the crankshaft up against the crank gear no bolts, but yeah must be used to deflect the oil from the seal as previously mentioned. I put it back on anyways on the newer motor but same timing case.
On a slighlty different topic. If anyone decides to change the water pump I would strongly suggest replacing the bolts as well. I was very surprised when I read from Rave to tighten to 28Nm. Well one of the bolts gave way
I'm hoping that the others will be enough, don't really want to try and remove it. Also a little annoyed that the gasket that came with the QH waterpump didn't fit the last 2 bolt holes. Only about 3/4 of it. Ended up using loctite 5920 instead. I haven't had much luck lately with gaskets lol. I'll see what happens tomorrow when I do the sump.
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17th September 2011, 04:23 PM
#12
Just on this slinger/seal topic, I pulled my crank pulley off my 92 3.9 V belt RRC today and again can confirm there is no slinger(these according to my Haynes were on very early models), no thin plate( and AFAIK the engine has never been apart except by me), and no screw on plate( and Haynes confirmed they were on early 3.5s)
The crank pulley holder has a rolled edge on the Outer rear but that is all. The seal on mine is a double lipped seal ( one back with spring, one front) which I think is correct, and this is the only method of keeping crap out.
BTW my seal was ****ing out oil , as I had it flush with the front of the timing case and this was on a badly worn area of the pulley. I did measurements today and find that if I fit it flush with the inner surface of the timing case the seal will ride on virgin surface, so consider this if you are thinking of a Speediseal or new pulley holder, which is $125 BTW.
BUT of course the problem is how to fit it straight without the timing cover off, and believe me you don't want to remove it just to chnage a seal.
Regards Philip A
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17th September 2011, 08:08 PM
#13
mmmm interesting, my v belt motor had been rebuilt in 07. Perhaps someone thought it a good idea at the time to fit it. It had the newer style oil seal on it too. I replaced the seal for good measure anyways. I ended up tapping it in from the back of the timing cover since I had it off. Used a roll of electrical tape and unravelled it until it became flush with the outer seal. Tapped it nicely with a rubber mallet until it was flush with the front.
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