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Thread: hub seal: did I push in to far?

  1. #21
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    ALL the ones I have found leaking after install had required new stubs to prevent it happening again, using the knock it in all the way with the drive flange method has worked for the last 10 + years for me.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  2. #22
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    thanks guys. I personally think that for the seal to work in 2 places is asking for a bit of trouble. Sure in a perfect world it is a good idea. But in reality with the machine tollerances and fitting the new seal by hand I think the rear face is a good chance of either not doing anything or getting chewed out. Everything would have to be flat and true AND no play in the wheel bearings what so ever. I scotch bright'd my stub axle and gave everything a very thorough clean. I checked that no part of the seal was potruding out of the hub.

    I got a bit of a shock when I opened my new seal that I picked up on thursday. Is it me or is there something not right in these pics:








    Also what are people torquing there drive flange nuts to?
    Last edited by uninformed; 9th January 2017 at 07:10 PM.

  3. #23
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    Seems to be a circular spring missing, or doesn't it have one.
    Of course it could be your photo's aren't clear ?

    Had similiar issues with the hub seals / stub axles on the OKA. Eventually replaced with Viton triple lipped seals. Not cheap but also not leaking.

    Deano

  4. #24
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    seal surprise

    Quote Originally Posted by uninformed View Post
    I got a bit of a shock when I opened my new seal that I picked up on thursday. Is it me or is there something not right in these pics:
    That's the correct number on the Corteco packet and that seal you have photographed, is exactly the same as the one's that I received, but with only half of my order which was paid for in full from a now known dodgy operator in the UK and Pay-pal told me they couldn't get the money from his account and I should ring that UK based seller to arrange the return of the money ! extra .

    I still had some of the better Corteco seal's left in their boxes, and I picked up enough extra's from Jagspares & British Four Wheel Drive in Hobart, to make two complete sets of the good Corteco ones.

    I do what JC does, to seat the seals in, the seal is driven in using a driving flange.

    As for the leaking rear wheel seal I had in my Defender at Cooma. At home before I left, I had replaced all the wheel bearings, seal's and a couple of the stub axles. I wasn't pleased after arriving in Cooma to find oil over the inside of one of my wheels, with its new pads and rotor .

    I looked around for why the rear diff housing was pressurising, the blockage was the breather banjo bolt having rusted inside it's hole and that was fixed easily with a small drill bit.

    I still have a couple of those seal that have no springs around the lips and have tried one in 'Fred', as I am still running grease only in the hubs, but I wouldn't be game to use that type in the oil lubricated hubs.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by uninformed View Post
    thanks guys. I personally think that for the seal to work in 2 places is asking for a bit of trouble. Sure in a perfect world it is a good idea. But in reality with the machine tollerances and fitting the new seal by hand I think the rear face is a good chance of either not doing anything or getting chewed out. Everything would have to be flat and true AND no play in the wheel bearings what so ever. I scotch bright'd my stub axle and gave everything a very thorough clean. I checked that no part of the seal was potruding out of the hub.

    I got a bit of a shock when I opened my new seal that I picked up on thursday. Is it me or is there something not right in these pics:








    Also what are people torquing there drive flange nuts to?

    That is a FTC4785, the WRONG seal in the RIGHT box!!!!

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  6. #26
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    if you look closely the RTC3511 is there, look closer and the part# on the end is 15510034. I was lucky enough to have a spare, normal double spring type (btw the one in the pic has no springs) it had a different part# but the same RTC3511. It was also a Corteco. I was thinking the 1 in the pic may have been the newer type for use with the outer seal (the one on the axle) when the bearings are packed in grease.

    I did not use the seal in the pics

    EDIT: just saw your reply JC, take a look at the part# on the end.....is this the newer seal to use with grease?

  7. #27
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    Still the wrong seal, manufacturing or packaging mixup for sure, that is an FTC4785, no mistake i toss these out on a regular basis.
    The 15510034 IS the right number for the FTC4785, someone has incorrectly stuck a RTC3511 sticker on the box.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Still the wrong seal, manufacturing or packaging mixup for sure, that is an FTC4785, no mistake i toss these out on a regular basis.
    The 15510034 IS the right number for the FTC4785, someone has incorrectly stuck a RTC3511 sticker on the box.

    JC
    yep thats what I was guessing. No way I was putting it in. Ill return it to my supplier for a correct one as a spare.

    JC I must say thanks for taking the time to help us hobbiests. Being that you work on these things day in day out, it must sometimes be the last thing you want to talk/think about. Cheers mate

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Still the wrong seal, manufacturing or packaging mixup for sure, that is an FTC4785, no mistake i toss these out on a regular basis.
    The 15510034 IS the right number for the FTC4785, someone has incorrectly stuck a RTC3511 sticker on the box.
    Thanks Justin for clarifying those numbers.

    When I ordered and paid for my eight seals from that dodgy UK seller, they were advertised as RTC3511 and I received four of those FTC4785 instead of the eight RTC3511, they were not in a box, just in individual plastic bag's and there was not any identification mark's on the bags at all.

    Serg, did you source your seal locally or the UK ?

    .

  10. #30
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    locally, from my LR specialist mechanic. He will have no problems changing it. He is a good bloke.

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