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Thread: Turbo lag

  1. #21
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    Ive done it a few times, and even pre MD low range gearset T/case it wasnt as smooth as many would have you think. Yes it is doable, but remember that at slow speed, with weight and going up a rise (this is why you are taking off in Low 2) it is very easy to loose momentum....and weight transfer/shock loading is very noticable.

    with my MD T/case its not something I do....I tend to drive many meters ahead, especially in city traffic....a rolling start is worth its weight in gold...even the smallest amount.

  2. #22
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    Serg, the crap linkages LR use hinder a smooth change big time.

    The Dana 20 with sliding gears in my old CJ6 (my first car ) was so much easier to go up and down in compared to the LT230.
    Don't think I ever missed or crunched a change once in it, half the time with the Defender you go to change up and the bloody lever sticks in low range, it won't come out......

  3. #23
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    Thanx Carle, Rick & Uninformed.
    Rick, I'll need to take a look at the numbers.
    Uninformed, I know what u mean about loosing momentum quickly, & the crunch from the gearbox was'nt too appealing either. Maybe more practice.
    Cheers Dean.

  4. #24
    klappers Guest
    What about a ratio swap?

  5. #25
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    I did it this morning. 1.8t trailer 110 def, 2.8tgv. took off in 3rd low, by the time I got it into 1st high I had lost almost 100% of forward movement. this was not forcing or getting any shock loading...the gradiant was very slight.

  6. #26
    slug_burner is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    You can't afford to be mucking around with two gear sticks, low thrid to high first needs for you to shift two sticks. You are certain to lose momentum. Get the thing rolling in low transfer case ratio and just get it into high when you do the shift, leave the gearbox in the same gear. Second gear migtht be the best compromise. Once you get it rolling in low rev it up, clutch pedal down pull into neutral on the transfer box, clutch pedal out, pause to allow the revs to drop on the engine, clutch pedal back in and into high range, clutch pedal out (slip it as required) and away you go.
    Last edited by slug_burner; 2nd November 2011 at 11:47 PM. Reason: added bit in red after reading rick130's comments

  7. #27
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    I've always used second low to second high.

    If you give it a big rev in low you'll need a reasonable pause in neutral to allow for the revs to drop enough for a smooth change into high range second.

    The only way you'll get good at it is practice.

    Double de-clutch on your main box for practice going down the gears, using a blip on the throttle to match revs.
    You'll know when your timing and revs are right, it'll shift like a hot knife through butter, no resistance at all.

  8. #28
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    dont forget that a lr's low range is about 3.4 to 1 and a cj6's is only 2.2 so you have a smaller gap to match the ratios. ie the closer the ratio gap the easier it is to change. i had the same problem in a std 130 dual cab and an unloaded tandem trailer a few years ago. i found if you load up the clutch with the park brake on to get the turbo boosting made a big difference.

  9. #29
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    Im familar with DD clutching, I use to do this and then learnt the no clutch method on my lt95 rangie that had lost syncro on 3rd...both in and out. My lt230 has 49% lower low range so 1/2 low is pretty bloody slow even with revs.

    3.2-1 up to 1.4-1 stock
    4.8-1 up to 1.4-1 MD49%

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by uninformed View Post
    Im familar with DD clutching, I use to do this and then learnt the no clutch method on my lt95 rangie that had lost syncro on 3rd...both in and out. My lt230 has 49% lower low range so 1/2 low is pretty bloody slow even with revs.

    3.2-1 up to 1.4-1 stock
    4.8-1 up to 1.4-1 MD49%
    You're stuffed then

    I knew an old crane driver when I was a kid that could swap two gear levers between the joey and main box on his old Mack's. (all crash gears)

    That's clever.

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