Most indicators with impending failures are slow or shuddering take up into gear when cold; poor shifting, flaring or bumping into changes, and lack of converter lockup or shudder when locking up at partial throttle, when at operating temp. MAKE SURE you check the oil for condition and level, walk away if it if dark and burnt looking, or severely underfilled.
I would start to get concerned about 200K, and worried by 250K. At least those are the km we mostly have to replace them at. Even with regular servicing etc they have some shortcomings.
They are a good trans BUT aren't quite big enough for serious work, and need to be kept COOL when towing, and serviced regularly using good oil, they can develop quite a few faults with valve body seperator plate gaskets breaking down, (Mostly seem to be 2002 on) sticking and failing shift and pressure solenoids, inadequate torque converter lockup clutch size, and then there is the half hearted attempt at irrepairable cooler line connectors at the oil cooler end.
They are a 'princess' of a gearbox at times, but do the job OK.
IF I was to recommend anything, Although quite exxy I would upgrade to the 4HP24EH internals (from a P38a trans), including bigger torque converter etc so it lasts a decent lifespan.
Sure there are plenty that last longer, but these are just the average km's we have experienced with trans issues in D2's.
The Manual isn't without its faults too, 5th gear support bearings, clutch and flywheel problems and some have poor shift issues since day one...but overall way less problems than other brands transmissions. Structurally the Suffix L R380 seems pretty robust, but high quality oil is required and regular changes will help lifespan. I would pick a manual one unless towing big loads in traffic, Defenders make good tow vehicles due to lower gearing but D2 (Unchipped) can be a bit of a pain to get going up an incline with a big weight.
JC


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If you prefer the driveability of the auto, (and lets face it they DO drive very well, and use very little fuel still etc) then go auto. Costs of overhaul are about on par if you include a new clutch and flywheel for the manual, If I was to be pinned down to a time/ km frame? I'd say less than 300K for an auto, and around 300 to 400 K for a manual if looked after, and it will more than likely need a clutch etc around 250 to 300K.
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