Thread: RRC and 38A owners beware of the BW devil

Originally Posted by PhilipA

And therein lies a theory.
My theory is that the splines to the rear tailshaft wear because the UJs transmit vibration into the splines, and this is probably increased by having a 2inch lift. You may be aware that UJs do not keep a constant speed but speed up and slow down each revolution and the greater the angle the more the speed variation, that is why they invented Constant Velocity Joints (CVs).
I think that is maybe one reason LR went to the Donuts.

Not considered that. Makes logical sense, though you would ask 'why' said vibration wreaks such havoc on the LR, but not the other 4WD's.
(Yes, I know, inadequate design...)

The evil visited upon this "fuse" (?) by the VC is simply the fact that the VC is resisting the centre-diff from doing its job, that of diffing... It is designed for a 50/50% split F-R, and the further the CD drifts from this, the more aggravated becomes the VC and the tighter it tries to hold together the F and R output speeds of the diff.

As road conditions and steering inputs change, the balance of power F-R is constantly shifting, and the bias on the shaft is likewise constantly reversing. Or, the splines are getting equally hammered on both sides , - and your pics indicate even wear.

Interestingly, I saw a similar shaft from an older LR, splines worn down to nearly nbothing, but only from one side. - Resulting from inadequate lube, a known design fault of its vintage.


The key to longevity could be keeping F & R tyre pressures perfect, long gentle turns when required and otherwise straight lines... to keep the power use to exactly 50/50 front to rear, and not annoying the Viscious Creature!

My 5 cents

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Yes , my method involved a 2lb lump hammer and a drift, and several hit in and hit outs. Probably didn't do the bearing in the output housing much good, but that should be changed anyway.
Regards Philip A

That was my first attempt also .... Dropped the box and swung a Sledge hammer






The below is my attempt to describe how I did it .... Hope it makes sense on your end




My Second attempt of removing the shaft from another (different) box was .....

Remove the hand brake drum and shoes
Sight the 32'mm nut
Put the Auto gearbox in PARK
Select HI gear for the transfer case

Install the socket with a very large strong (solid) arm bar on the nut
The spline turns Clockwise when driving the car forward .... So use the bar and "shock bang / jarring" the spline anti-clockwise ..... (check the directions, as my memory is faded on the exact rotating directions)

There is a bit of slack from the chain, that will help in a constant "shock banging / jarring" force, to reverse the "male spline" (of the shaft) off the "female internal gear"




All you have to remember is: The spline jammed by driving the car forward ... So try constant (read: repeating) "shock banging / jarring" the shaft, by reversing it




Then undo the usual housing bolts to remove / Re-tighten the bolts if you need another go at it ....

Cheers
Mike