Thread: Defender interior and wiring - Redo

Originally Posted by GyroLandy

First - I'm going to install all 13 switches including the radio and 2-way radio. The idea is to run all the wires to one box under the bonnet. So there should be 26 wires all neatly fitted with female ends in a plastic box. Then I want to run a thick wire from the positive on the battery to a box under the bonnet with room for 13 female plugs. The idea being that I can at anytime connect these wires to whatever I want to run without having to pull wires through the dash etc. Any views on this approach and what thickness of wire I need for the positive lead extensions and all the other 26 wires I'll be running for the switches.

Thickness will depend on what sort of current you want to run through it.. and how you are going to fuse it...

Originally Posted by GyroLandy

Second - What is the best and most affordable dual battery system out there at the moment?

traxside (forum supporter) has some great stuff.. check the veranda section

Originally Posted by GyroLandy

Third - Where can I find an Engine management system for the Tdi and what should I look for in these i.e. what should they measure.

Fourth - Seeing as I will have some room for gauges on the new pod, what should I prioritise in terms of gauges and where can I find reasonably priced gauges?

VDO EGT guage - ebay or eguages

Originally Posted by GyroLandy

Fifth - If I am looking to do a roof mounted aircon above the rear seats what is the best one to use? Would I still need the unit under the dash?

reddot - search around there are a few people running them

Originally Posted by GyroLandy

Sixth - What to do if the speedo needle jumps a bit? Is it a speedo issue or the cable?

Most likely your cable.. they are not hard or expensive to replace

Originally Posted by GyroLandy

Seventh - When doing the heat insulation on the bottom and the noise dampening on the inside should I drill small holes through the floor where I can see water currently collecting when it rains (especially in the driver side foothold) just for it to drain and not get trapped under the carpets etc.?

No - seal the holes where the water is getting in. Search around for the defender water ingress manual.

Originally Posted by GyroLandy

I'm sure to have a list of questions going forward but the idea is to at the end of this:

1. Get the noise level in the cabin down

seal up all the holes, and use dynamat or similar

Originally Posted by GyroLandy

2. Prevent the heat from the engine and gearbox cooking me inside

As above

Originally Posted by GyroLandy

3. Aircon that can keep temps inside at about 16 degrees Celsius

reddot

Originally Posted by GyroLandy

4. Switches neatly installed with everything close to hand

raptor console

And don't forget to start a thread in the members rides section!!

Crikey !! Where to start ?

First is a good place....................

Originally Posted by GyroLandy

First - I'm going to install all 13 switches including the radio and 2-way radio. The idea is to run all the wires to one box under the bonnet. So there should be 26 wires all neatly fitted with female ends in a plastic box. Then I want to run a thick wire from the positive on the battery to a box under the bonnet with room for 13 female plugs. The idea being that I can at anytime connect these wires to whatever I want to run without having to pull wires through the dash etc. Any views on this approach and what thickness of wire I need for the positive lead extensions and all the other 26 wires I'll be running for the switches.

This method doesn't take into account FUSING of the main power feed from the battery or fusing of the distribution from the switches.
It also does not allow for other than direct battery power, ie. feeds from accessory or ignition power feeds. Nor does it allow for switching from say, the high beam circuit to feed driving lights, also it doesn't provide for 'change-over' switching, ie. switching from device a/. to device b/.
Your power 'patch box' under the bonnet sounds good in theory but I don't think is very practical.

I am not trying to rain on your parade here but I think there is a better way.

If you wany a 'set and forget' (as far as the switch panel is concerned), I would suggest you cable your main power feeds (direct, ignition etc) from the fuse panel via FUSES and allocate these feed(s) to groups of switches. ie. switch 1-3 direct battery feed, switch 4-6 from accessory battery feed, switch 7-9 from ign. battery feed. Switch 10-13 could have their wires sent direcly to the fuse panel and be configured as required. It's going to get crowded behind the fuse panel as the switching outputs should also be FUSED as well as the power inputs. But should all fit if done carefully. Most accessorys are low current devices so the size of wire needed shouldn't be too large, 2mm would probably cover most things.
For driving lights etc you'll be switching relays near the lights so 2mm from the switch panel will be heaps.
On the subject of relays, you should install them on your headlights (if not already fitted) to a/. take the load off the crappy Lucas light and flash switches and b/. actually get 13.5v to the lights.
I think Traxide (and maybe others who support this site) has a kit for this and it is money well spent.

Similiarly with

Originally Posted by GyroLandy

Second - What is the best and most affordable dual battery system out there at the moment?

As for:

Originally Posted by GyroLandy

Third - Where can I find an Engine management system for the Tdi and what should I look for in these i.e. what should they measure.

I've got no idea.

Originally Posted by GyroLandy

Fourth - Seeing as I will have some room for gauges on the new pod, what should I prioritise in terms of gauges and where can I find reasonably priced gauges?

Temp, Battery & Oil Pressure are the traditional ones but the Defender is the only diesel vehicle I've seen without a tacho. Most 2" tachos are made for rev heads and go to around 10K rpm which is a silly scale for a diesel engine that tops out at 4600 rpm. VDO have some good gauges in their marine range that are 2" and not crap with tachos that max out at 6K rpm.
There is always boost and EGT so you've got plenty to choose from. Depends on how many holes you've got. You can always ditch the clock and put in something useful.

No idea with 5 & 6

Originally Posted by GyroLandy

Seventh - When doing the heat insulation on the bottom and the noise dampening on the inside should I drill small holes through the floor where I can see water currently collecting when it rains (especially in the driver side foothold) just for it to drain and not get trapped under the carpets etc.?

I used Dynamat for sound deadening and it is very effective (don't forget to put it under the door trim), not cheap but very effective and less than 2mm thick.
You can also get air pocket heat insulation, like bubble wrap with very small bubbles to put over Dynamat (marine carpet on top) which is supposed to be very effective (and cheap), but I've never used it.

There is a LR document on waterproofing called 'Defender Water Ingress', Google it. It's better to fix the leaks than drill holes to drain the water.

Deano

If you're doing the install from scratch like this, consider getting a Madman EMS. Everything has settable alarms, and you'll likely save a few $$ and a lot of space over buying individual instruments.

For wiring, you can get multi-core trailer cable in different thicknesses from most auto places (Bursons, Repco etc). I've just run some 5-core rated at 5A (dont recall the actual thickness) to use for an in-cab control for my winch. I only need 3 wires to do the job, but I'm sure the extra 2 cores will come in handy at some stage, and the outer insulation layer saves having to wrap individual wires. It aslo comes in 7-core, and a 10A rated version.

Bushman83 has just documented his work on some of the jobs you mentioned:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...der-build.html

Steve

Which sound deadening is better, Dynamat or Nuwave from Thermotec.

Same question for insulation against heat from engine etc?

Originally Posted by GyroLandy

Which sound deadening is better, Dynamat or Nuwave from Thermotec.

No idea, but my dynamat works really well. PM me if you would like my opinion on tru-fit carpets..... Posting it here would get me banned

Originally Posted by GyroLandy

Which sound deadening is better, Dynamat or Nuwave from Thermotec.

Same question for insulation against heat from engine etc?

Don't know anything about Nuwave or Thermotec but I installed Dynamat in the cab of the Oka (forward control, engine under centre seat if there was one).
I put one layer over everything and a double layer over the engine hatch and sides with marine carpet over the top. The result was amazing. To say noise was cut substantially would be an understatement. It became possible to have a normal conversation and even listen to the radio. In fact it did such a good job that the air intake became the loudest sound in the cabin. (The Oka has a built in snorkel in the B pillar behind the drivers seat). Easily fixed, took the cover off and covered the air inlet pipe with about 3 layers of all my Dynamat off cuts, problem solved. To say the noise level in the Oka cab was cut by 90% would not be exagerating.
A good product, not cheap but worth every penny.

Deano

Thx guys, so it seems like Dynamat Extreme is the way to go. The supplier mentioned putting Dynamat in and then covering it with 6mm Dyna Liner. Any views on this, seems to be getting a tad expensive.


I plan on doing the insides of the doors as well so will probably need 6 sqm which will cost around $500.

So what do I use for heat insulation and so I do the insulation inside the cab before I do the sound deadening Dynamat or should it go on the outside.

Last thing what about sound deadening paint, is it worth it?

I need to order tomorrow to have everything by teh weekend so please let me know your thoughts.

Two packs will do it.... Just.. I think I got four, but I will do the roof to. Dont forget to get a big pack of grommets.

Also you will need something to apply it.. I didnt get the roller, buy used some bits of wood and pipe offcuts I had laying around.

Apply it to the inside of the cabin, it will stop heat as well.

I dont think dynaliner is worth it, you are better off using carpet that has a rubber backing.. Or using tar backed felt which is what I did in the front.