Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 17

Thread: Undoing recalcitrant head bolt...

  1. 27th August 2012, 10:37 PM #1
    superquag
    superquag is offline ForumSage
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Gosnells
    Posts
    6,148
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Undoing recalcitrant head bolt...

    One for the more experienced engine re-builders...

    Was helping #1 Son remove a leaky (alloy) head on a diesel, and naturally there's ONE bolt that won't 'crack'.
    - 10mm Allen-head, properly installed etc. right at the front of engine.

    We can't shift it with a 1 metre breaker bar, and the tool is riding up & out of the head with that much force. A 600mm bar did the rest.

    Question:- would we be better off with a rattle-gun, (pushing downwards as the gun does the work) or persuade it with a longer bar ? - Problem with a longer bar is that we can't get enough down-force to stop it coming up & out.

    How nasty does the rattle gun need to be ?

    The plot is to see why the oil is looking brownish, and#1 cylinder is full of coolant...then make the Big Decision as to Fix or Flick the car.

    I've threatened to replace it with a D1 diesel, which has enthused him with fixing it instead.

    Thanks !
    Thanks
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  2. 27th August 2012, 11:45 PM #2
    isuzurover's Avatar
    isuzurover
    isuzurover is offline Swaggie
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    13,786
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Try giving the bolt head a few belts with a BFH.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  3. 28th August 2012, 05:37 AM #3
    uninformed
    uninformed is offline ForumSage
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    5,101
    Total Downloaded
    0
    To go further on what Ben said, I would either cut an Allen key of correct size, insert and hit with hammer, or buy an old school hand operated impact wrench and the appropriate size hex socket. These you hold in one hand and strike the end, this produces a downward blow and a small amount of rotation....

    Soaking with some inox may help...
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  4. 28th August 2012, 06:23 AM #4
    Blknight.aus's Avatar
    Blknight.aus
    Blknight.aus is offline RoverLord Vendor
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,497
    Total Downloaded
    0
    insert a nut thats the same size before you hit it with the FBH, this will stop you peening the edgse of the hex inwards and stopping your tools from gripping correctly.

    heat the head of the bolt with a hot air gun, then hit it with the hammer, then normal size tools with plenty of down force. if that doesnt work get an impact rated socket re heat the bolt then have a go at it with an impact driver and if that doesnt work reheat and go with the rattle gun.

    if it strips out carefully center drill the head off of the bolt lift the head off then grab the shank with multi grips or weld a nut onto it and then undo.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  5. 28th August 2012, 08:41 AM #5
    superquag
    superquag is offline ForumSage
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Gosnells
    Posts
    6,148
    Total Downloaded
    0
    ...Must be getting old(er)... was wondering how to get a gas-axe flame onto the bolt without damaging the head & camshaft......
    Never thought of a hot-air gun.

    Tried the allen-key/belting with BOA... (back of axe), but insufficient adjectival quality of the B*H.

    Yes, Uninformed, sound idea... can hold it remotely whilst applying aforementioned Highly Technical Persuading Tool - Got a 10lb version in the Shed.

    Thanks to all.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  6. 28th August 2012, 08:47 AM #6
    Blknight.aus's Avatar
    Blknight.aus
    Blknight.aus is offline RoverLord Vendor
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,497
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I also have an old fire blanket with a series of holes torn in it to help with the prevention of radient heat heating up parts you dont want heated. I've also been known to knock up heat shields out of old cans
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  7. 28th August 2012, 10:16 AM #7
    Davo
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    2,595
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    I also have an old fire blanket with a series of holes torn in it to help with the prevention of radient heat heating up parts you dont want heated. I've also been known to knock up heat shields out of old cans
    Of all the obvious things - I never thought of using a fire blanket for that, and I've needed that sort of thing many times over the years, too. I bet it would be good for protecting from weld spatter as well. Thanks!
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  8. 28th August 2012, 10:54 AM #8
    Blknight.aus's Avatar
    Blknight.aus
    Blknight.aus is offline RoverLord Vendor
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,497
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Correct,

    my latest one came into being for welding nuts onto the rounded off head bolts of Td5's
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  9. 28th August 2012, 11:07 AM #9
    uninformed
    uninformed is offline ForumSage
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    5,101
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Isn't heating the bolt going to make it expand and bind even more......personally I wouldn't
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  10. 28th August 2012, 11:43 AM #10
    Tank's Avatar
    Tank
    Tank is offline AT REST
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Moruya Heads/Sth. Coast, NSW
    Posts
    6,532
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Uni, heating the bolt may loosen any loctite that may have been used or corrosion that may be holding. Also the metal surrounding the thread in the block will expand and contract as well, all worth trying.
    Best bet is Air impact drill (rattle gun) and then breaker bar if rattle gun dont budge it, Regards Frank.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
« Battery question | TD5 injector »

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Forum Rules

Search AULRO.com ONLY!
 Search All the Web!