Thread: Td5 clutch- pull engine or gearbox out ?

Hi Don,

The last couple of times I've done the clutch/clutch fork/rear main/etc I've removed the gearbox and transfer case. I pull out the tunnel and the panel between the seat boxes (no cubby box in mine), and then stick an engine crane in through one of the front doors to drop the lot down onto a trolley jack, or more recently, a dolly I have (just a thick piece of timber about 600mm square with four castors on it). The scissor lift would work well if it had castors on it, and if it lowered far enough to allow the assembly to come out under the chassis rails (could always jack the vehicle up I suppose).

I'm about to do it all again (sigh) because my engagement point is getting high up in the pedal travel, and my flywheel needs machining.

James.

P.S. Oh and I'm not doing a project on it because you will no doubt finish before me!

Ah yeah - I can lift the transfer case and gearbox individually, but not together. I guess they are about 40kg-ish each. I actually managed to bench press the transfer case into place once, and hold it with one arm while I installed bolts, and I'm not particularly big/strong.

James.

Last time I removed the Gearbox & T/Case together with a trolley jack, and used an engine hoist to provide angle on the engine.

Fitting the larger Roverdrive alloy sump on the t/case gives the t/case a level surface off which to jack, so I'm hoping next time it won't require a cradle, but just a piece of flat timber on the trolley jack to balance the t/case on.

Investing in the extended finned sump may be easier, cheaper and more useful than the scissor lift, depending on what other uses you have for the scissor lift.

When I did mine about 3 months ago, I split the gearbox and transfer case which made it easier to handle. I also changed all the seals on both the boxes while they were out including the intermediate shaft o-rings.

My clutch also looked like new but it was the cup in the push fork that was the problem.

A gearbox trolley made the job much easier.

Cheers, Jurgens.

Originally Posted by rainman

Ah yeah - I can lift the transfer case and gearbox individually, but not together. I guess they are about 40kg-ish each. I actually managed to bench press the transfer case into place once, and hold it with one arm while I installed bolts, and I'm not particularly big/strong.

James.

Yeah, thanks James, nearly gave myself a hernia last time I did that, which is why I was thinking engine out, but seems gbox out is the consensus. At least I wont have to drain coolants and upset the A/C man again by disconnecting my compressor

Originally Posted by Michael2

Last time I removed the Gearbox & T/Case together with a trolley jack, and used an engine hoist to provide angle on the engine.

Fitting the larger Roverdrive alloy sump on the t/case gives the t/case a level surface off which to jack, so I'm hoping next time it won't require a cradle, but just a piece of flat timber on the trolley jack to balance the t/case on.

Investing in the extended finned sump may be easier, cheaper and more useful than the scissor lift, depending on what other uses you have for the scissor lift.

Cheers, I already have the Roverdrive extended t/case sump. good tip.

Originally Posted by BST4X4XFA

When I did mine about 3 months ago, I split the gearbox and transfer case which made it easier to handle. I also changed all the seals on both the boxes while they were out including the intermediate shaft o-rings.

My clutch also looked like new but it was the cup in the push fork that was the problem.

A gearbox trolley made the job much easier.

Cheers, Jurgens.

Thanks, was your clutch fork cast or pressed ?
When I was looking thru the slave cylinder hole with my borescope I expected to see a pressed fork like the ones that have the pivot wear out, but mine seems to be a cast fork, do they still have the cup issues, if so that may be my problem.

it depends on what you have access to for gear and what else you need to work on.

if you only have a floor crane you lift the engine.
if you need to replace something else on the engine, you lift the engine

if you only have a floor jack you drop the box
if you need to work on the box you drop the box.

its about 50/50 as to which way you go if you have everything and dont need to work on anything else.

One of these adaptors might be the go eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d

Originally Posted by goingbush

Thanks, was your clutch fork cast or pressed ?
When I was looking thru the slave cylinder hole with my borescope I expected to see a pressed fork like the ones that have the pivot wear out, but mine seems to be a cast fork, do they still have the cup issues, if so that may be my problem.

Mine was a cast, replaced with another cast. It lasted for 220K. Make sure you also get the push-rod.

Cheers, Jurgens.