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Thread: Is my deefer cursed? Removing a harmonic balancer

  1. #1
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    Is my deefer cursed? Removing a harmonic balancer

    Hi everyone,
    At the moment I'm replacing the timing belt in my defender 110 200tdi. Pretty much every bolt has either snapped or required a lot of penetrating oil/loctite freeze release. I had to cut my viscous fan off it was that seized.
    Ive struggled through and managed to get to taking the harmonic balancer off. The nut in the middle is ridiculously tight and i tried using a breaker bar on the end with it in low range and got nowhere. Next I tried to use the starter motor to undo it and managed to do this.

    Thats a kincrome tommy bar and a sidchrome breaker bar snapped clean off.
    My next step is to use this that im halfway through making. Pretty much welding the socket to a bit of 2 inch SHS.


    Is this worth doing to wreck a socket or will I just keep burning my starter motor out?

    Does anyone have any suggestions or one of the locking tools I could borrow for tomorrow?
    Cheers,
    Joe

  2. #2
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    No, your motor car isn't cursed (unless you're cursing it right now).... and it looks like you've got a stubborn one !

    .... it's unfortunate that you've broken good tools, but you're not using them correctly

    there are many threads on this site about how to do this and the difflock recommendations include a special tool (which you can make) to hold the crankshaft while you undo the nut with a 3/4 drive 27mm socket (see correction in post#4 below) with a very long breaker bar...

    that bolt is supposed to be very tight !

    I know that many people manage to loosen them by whacking their tool on the chassis rail with the starter but it's definitely NOT the recommended method... and I hope you've disconnected the fuel solenoid activation....

    Some person may have used too much loktite on a previous occasion and if so this can be softened with juducious heat applied to the head of the crankshaft bolt.

  3. #3
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    I didnt disconnect the fuel solenoid. And bracing against the axle is a no no. It managed to lift the body an inch every time i hit the starter.
    Don't think it had an effect otherwise, the starter broke the breaker bars and i had it turned off before it fired properly. It didn't even let the plume of smoke out the back.
    Looks like Ill be spending tomorrow morning building a tool to hold the pulley so i can tighten it back up.

  4. #4
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    for others, as i'm sure the OP knows by now, the socket for 200tdi is 1 3/16", larger than 300tdi which are 1 1/16". some early 300tdi were also 1 3/16"

    sorry to butt in


    jc

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    for others, as i'm sure the OP knows by now, the socket for 200tdi is 1 3/16", larger than 300tdi which are 1 1/16". some early 300tdi were also 1 3/16"

    sorry to butt in


    jc
    Not a problem, I was a bit confused about all the posts online (mainly 300tdi) saying you need a 27mm socket. If that was the case Id be laughing. 2 mates Ive had a chat to both had them in 3/4 drive.

  6. #6
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    There was a thread and a short film showing a tool that makes getting these nuts undone a piece of cake. I made one for my motor recently. It worked a treat. http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/161587-easy-way-remove-crankshaft-bolt.html
    They also need to be done up reasonably tight as you noticed. There is some discussion also on tightening the nut up at home.
    Mod that thread "easy way to remove crank shaft bolt " needs to be put in Document and tutorials
    Cheers Hall

  7. #7
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    PM sent.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  8. #8
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    dont forget to heat the thing up... that'll soften the loctite if its been used.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
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    You need to extend the breaker bar so as it will come to a stop ON TOP of the passenger side chassis rail. Position the end of the bar (or extension) about 50mm above the chassis rail, disconnect the fuel solenoid and one click on the starter should do it, if you can get 3/4" drive gear, all the better, Regards Frank.

  10. #10
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    Well i managed to get the job done with the help of Tony, jboot51, off here. Thanks again really couldn't have done it without you.
    This is the bar I made to get it undone

    Wedged it under the steering box on the chassis rail and even then it was pretty damn persistent. Took 3 hits of the starter to get it undone. After that it really wasn;t clear sailing.
    The front timing chest was jammed on and we had to grind back a stud holding the cover in place.
    The belt and all timing gears were in great condition, just a build up of oil and grease from a few years use.
    Next was locking the flywheel, and finding the wading plug was seized in the bellhousing. A few minutes with different drills and we were away.

    Didnt think to take any pictures but long story short we finally got it all together about 3pm after starting at 9, and started her up. It ran very well, except the temperature gauge headed towards the red and the heater pipes go very warm. So we took the thermostat out to make sure it was all pumping through and this time the gauge headed to just under the red with the all hoses and the block being able to touch.
    We checked the sensor by shorting the wire to earth and the gauge went straight past hot. Does this sound like a dodgy thermostat and temp sensor or is it something more sinister? I dont have a low coolant sensor or engine saver, am buying one as I write this.
    Cheers for any input,
    Joe

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