If your leak off pipes are nylon then they are probably brittle by now. You can get new nylon pipe, slip it on and use heat to seal.. I couldn't be bothered so just got a new leak off assembly -> MJN100910
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If your leak off pipes are nylon then they are probably brittle by now. You can get new nylon pipe, slip it on and use heat to seal.. I couldn't be bothered so just got a new leak off assembly -> MJN100910
The body is crimped together which is a pain and the parts plus servicing is around the same price or more than newy's.Quote:
Originally Posted by Matplat
Also I've been told only a few places can check/service both stages, but don't know how correct this is.
Well I received the reconditioned injectors on Thursday and took them straight to the diesel shop to get tested. Crack pressure ok(slightly high), atomisation good. So I'm pretty happy!
Next question, the Haynes manual suggests replacing all the big end and main cap nuts and bolts but the land rover workshop manual makes no mention of it. So is it actually necessary?
Also, when re-installing the T-seals the Haynes manual suggests to use feeler gauges along the bottom edge of the seals to protect them as the bearing cap is inserted. Has anyone had any luck with this method? I won't have the luxury of time to really let the seals sit before I trim them, but is there a minimum that you really can't go without? Or should I trim them slightly longer than the 0.8mm suggested?
Ok, so I have just realised I may have made a serious error.
When dismantling the engine, I separated the camshaft sprocket from its hub, then removed the hub from the end of the camshaft.
As they both are keyed I thought this would be okay, but reading through the manual it seems I shouldn't have. How difficult is it to re-mate the sprocket and hub in their correct position?
Cheers, Matt
Hi MattQuote:
Originally Posted by Matplat
The Camshaft sprocket has a locating mark for top dead centre, when the cam it's self is at TDC, the lobes for number four cylinder will be in the position where the inlet and exhaust valves are rocking, that is when the exhaust has just closed as the inlet is about to open.
Of greater concern is the hub on the injector pump shaft, if that has been disturbed, you will need to do some fancy measurements to get the hub back into it's correct position, as it isn't keyed.
.
No, I knew that the injection pump hub had to stay attached so that one is all good.
So it is just a question of sighting the position of the valves once most of the reassembly has occurred, and ensuring everything else is aligned?
mat
I am unsure why the manual bangs on about the camshaft sprocket - I think just to alarm first timers It is as you say keyed and can only assemble in one orientation
If you dont have time to let t-seals settle perhaps investigate injecting silicone sealant instead? If you do run with t-seals knock up a pair of t-seal guides - easy enough or if you would like I can drop my set into a post pack which should get to you by this friday (15/2)
With regards to Big end / main nuts and studs - I thought the 300 rebuild manual had some max length figures? Either way I did replace them in my rebuild just to be sure # I lost my first 300tdi 12 years ago to number 1 main stud shearing - conrods dont like to be loosey goosey!
Regards
Steve
Cheers Steve, I may take you up on that offer.
Does anyone have any wisdom around the use of silicone instead of the T-Seals?
I would have no idea which silicone to use, and I understand there is some difficulty getting the silicone to completely fill the seal cavity?
The factory use silicon instead of T seals in later engines, but it's forced in under pressure.
Ok so all was planned to do the rebuild this weekend....
Then the next bomb dropped, the cylinder head I ordered is bare not a complete assembly as I had wanted. Turns out it was my fault so I can't go back to the supplier.
I figure I can re-use most of the components from the old head, but the main thing I will have to do is insert new valve guides. Has anyone done this before, the workshop manual says to heat the head to 120degC then knock the guides in to a preset distance using a collar around the valve guide to achieve the correct position.
Is is necessary to ream the guides afterwards, and can this be done by hand?
Cheers, Matt