Another 300 tdi overheat!

So I contacted the first seller and he was helpful with my questions, apparently all the big and little end and main bearings have been done and an average of 348psi compression within 3% of each other. 348 seems a bit low what are your thoughts?

I am also struggling with the fact that despite what the seller has said he could send over anything. He does however offer a 3 month warranty, not that I would be able to take advantage of it.

If I rebuild my own engine I know exactly what has been done.

The other factor in the equation is that if I get a reconditioned engine I will be able to part out my current engine to recoup some cost...?

If you block or crank are non salvageable,
I would be more tempted to buy his 300 block crank rods and pistons for 595quid
as he states "all heads skimmed & pressure tested or replaced"
On a new donk I want a new head (Turners) not a re-worked banana.

But how scary is freight gonna be?

How long can this thing be off the road?
How much time do you have to burn on it?

They are the two questions that will push your hand! In your photos pots 1,2 and 4 still look okay
Whack a new HG on remove the pushrods for no. 3 and run on reduced power till you find an engine ;) ;) !!!

Steve

"The other factor in the equation is that if I get a reconditioned engine I will be able to part out my current engine to recoup some cost...?"

Ill give you a fiver for no.3 piston and rod! It will look good on my wall of shame in the shed.

Dont bank too much on getting funds for your busted stuff.
Say the crank is technically okay, how much will you get for a used crank that needs machining?

If your on a time pinch but are keen to do a sump up rebuild. Find a donga engine/vehicle that runs. Jam that in to keep you mobile. Have good monitoring: Coolant Temperature, EGT and Coolant level and baby it while you slowly rebuild your engine up how you want without time pressure. This is essentially how it did mine, the old disco engine was tired tired tired burned oil, blown HG at all pots but with close monitoring I was able to baby it along for a goodly length of time while building up the donk I have in now.

If you had a freight option, youd be welcome to have the old girl for a season.
Bores are worn clean so check the fuel top up the oil?
Head is tired but a new HG will get it tight enough?
Biggest problem is its in Cooktown your 2000km away!

S

Steve

Quote:

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Originally Posted by roverrescue

They are the two questions that will push your hand! In your photos pots 1,2 and 4 still look okay
Whack a new HG on remove the pushrods for no. 3 and run on reduced power till you find an engine

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Steve your info is incomplete, to keep oil pressure up you must;

Cut the tongue out of your Blunnies, finish drinking your beer, hey! don't crush the can! Drink another beer and do save the can this time.

Cut the side out out of the can, wrap the leather tongue around the exposed journal, wrap the tin around the leather and hold it all in place by tying some fencing wire around it.
.

Good idea Arthur on keeping the big end oil pressure in, but I was suggesting the super lazy and just let the dead piston run up and down the bore (dont even need to remove the sump!)... it would only knock a shade off the powerhouse that is a 300tdi!

S

So the block is at the machinist getting sorted should be all good with 40 thou pistons....

My next question will the injectors be ok with just putting new tips on them?

I am gonna bite the bullet and get a new radiator unless people think it is cost effective to rod it or re-core it?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Matplat

So the block is at the machinist getting sorted should be all good with 40 thou pistons....

My next question will the injectors be ok with just putting new tips on them?

I am gonna bite the bullet and get a new radiator unless people think it is cost effective to rod it or re-core it?

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If the core looks OK, ie the fins seem solid and don't go all crumbly when you run your hand across it then I'd just get it rodded. Around $150 according to those who've had them done recently.

Steve

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Matplat

So the block is at the machinist getting sorted should be all good with 40 thou pistons....

My next question will the injectors be ok with just putting new tips on them?

I am gonna bite the bullet and get a new radiator unless people think it is cost effective to rod it or re-core it?

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Get new injectors as those are not serviceable and if the Land Rover has had overheating issues at all, then fit a new radiator as it is good insurance.

There is now a lot of postings on this forum, now saying that replacing the radiator has cured the overheating problems, even after they have rodded their old radiators out they have still experienced overheating problems.

I can back those statements up with my experience also.
.

Yeah considering I was getting all the bits sent over anyway, I ordered a new rad too $150 ish depending on exchange rate...

Also I'v ordered a set of these:

LAND ROVER 300 TDI BOSCH INJECTORS SET OF 4 | eBay

Why do people say that the injectors aren't serviceable? there seem to be plenty of ads on ebay for reconditioned injectors? I know that diesel shops don't service them over here... but not sure why that is.

Another question.

As the head got so hot, the fuel return line from the injectors got melted off no.1 injector. I cut the melted end off and tried to jam it back on to the injector with limited success. Is there a trick to doing this? it is difficult because the hose is a hard plastic....

Matt