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Thread: Bilstein Rebuild

  1. #1
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    Bilstein Rebuild

    I had a pair of Bilsteins made up by Quadrant in Hallam (Vic) for the back of the 110 SW a few years ago. One of the shocks is now leaking oil.

    The shocks started life as Land Cruiser fronts from memory, to suit the open / closed lengths required for a 2" lifted 110. Quadrant modified the pin-pin set up to an eye-pin set up to suit the Land Rover.

    I've found that the eye at the top of the shocks twists and destroys bushes quickly, so I have purchased the MONSTA adaptors from Foundry 4x4 (like the Terrafirma ones) to convert the shocks to a pin-pin set up.

    Unfortunately for me Quadrant want $170 per shock to rebuild them and 10 days. I could live with the price, even though it's double the overseas price for a shock absorber, but I can't go without the car for 10 days.

    Does anyone know of anyone in Melb who can rebuild Bilstein Shocks? (same day service would be good)
    or
    If I wanted to just order the Land Cruiser ones, what's the chance they dampening rate would be all wrong?
    or
    Do you know where I can get KONIs cheap?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    You won't get anyone to do same day service, or at least I highly doubt it.

    I used to use Bakers in Melbourne for Billies, they really know their stuff and IMO are the premier Billie re-valvers in Australia.

    37 Corinish Rd Huntingdale or Oakleigh South, depending on your directory. Ph # 03 9544 6066

  3. #3
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    I hope that you don't really intend to carry a lot of weight in the rear of your 110 with those upper rear shock mounts.They should be ok for a weekend play truck,except that I don't like the fact that they are not welded right across the top mounting flange.They will allow the shock to lay over on too much of an angle to be properly utilised in a vehicle that carries a load,ie when touring in rugged areas,where the shock requires to be at a more vertical plane to work properly when carrying a load.
    Wayne
    ​VK2VRC
    "LandRover" What the Japanese aspire to be
    Taking the road less travelled
    '01 130 dualcab HCPU locked and loaded
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowRanger View Post
    I hope that you don't really intend to carry a lot of weight in the rear of your 110 with those upper rear shock mounts.They should be ok for a weekend play truck,except that I don't like the fact that they are not welded right across the top mounting flange.They will allow the shock to lay over on too much of an angle to be properly utilised in a vehicle that carries a load,ie when touring in rugged areas,where the shock requires to be at a more vertical plane to work properly when carrying a load.
    Hi Wayne, thanks for the warning, as the idea was to get better long range touring reliability.

    Looking at the brackets, they place the shock absorber in the exact same mounting angle as the original, plus I would have thought that the ability of the pin to angle in any direction would be better than the eye that binds with any twisting force.

    The construction of the units seems substantial, they're thicker than the lower pin mount on the axle. The only place they're not welded is on the corners of the brace. Having read up on vehicle engineering mods (some years ago), all chassis welds had to be stitch welds to prevent a crack from travelling along a weld. These seem to utilise the same principle with the disruption in the weld.

    However I'm happy to be guided by other peoples experience or engineering skills. I'll have to look into it a bit more.

  5. #5
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    Hi Michael
    The mounts look very similar to the Terrafirma mounts which are a copy of mounts designed by Gwyn Lewis in the U.K. for use in competition Land Rover 90's.I have a set of Gwyns' mounts made for use with a 110,which give you the option of 3 different mounting angles for the shock absorber,from the layed over position of the competition mount to the upright position required when carrying a load over an extended period over rough terrain,and a position in between.This was designed due to the 110 being a heavier vehicle and its ability to carry heavier loads.Unfortunately,when companies don't design things themselves and just make things without understanding the engineering behind the design,they are unable to pass on this sort of information.
    All I can say is compare a Terrafirma or similar mount,to the original,and you will see what I mean.They may look pretty,but parts can be just like people,superficial !!!!
    Wayne
    ​VK2VRC
    "LandRover" What the Japanese aspire to be
    Taking the road less travelled
    '01 130 dualcab HCPU locked and loaded
    LowRange 116.76:1

  6. #6
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    1.13 MB
    I dont know about cheap but Topeformance in Vermont are the Koni agent .
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  7. #7
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    Top performance are not cheap. Cheapest I've seen is Paddocks for Konis.

    Cheers
    Simon
    Cheers

    Simon
    2003 D2a TD5, ACE, SLS, Vienna Green.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonmelb View Post
    Top performance are not cheap. Cheapest I've seen is Paddocks for Konis.

    Cheers
    Simon
    IIRC Paddocks only sell the 30 series mono-tubes.
    I'd rather an 82 Series twin tube, it can be rebuilt/revalved, the 30Series can't.

  9. #9
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    from Paddocks :


    The 30-1311 Koni shocks are a pin-pin.

    Unfortunately we are unable to send these to Australia. As they are a high pressure shock, the Civil Aviation Authority have deemed them as a dangerous object. The only Koni shocks we can send start with '8240-'.


    I'm thinking I might use Bakers and rebuild the existing Bilstein, $50 vs $170 from Quadrant; and keep the current set up.

    Anyone want to buy a set of Pin-Pin rear shock adaptors?
    or
    I can keep the adaptors and keep looking on ebay ncase anyone decides to sell a 2nd hand pair of KONI Raids from an 80 Series Land Cruiser front. Then just wind them up to the desired setting and carry them and the adaptors as spares on big trips.

  10. #10
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    If you tell Gary and Mick the car and spring rate they can suggest whether the valving is OK or could be better too.

    If you can change the angle of the top pin, it will put less starin on the eye bushes.

    LRA used to sell an angled shim (wedge) you could put behind the top mount to correct the angle.
    It'd make a big difference to bush life.

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